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Posted

We are running royal purple in ours. I am truly impressed with the stuff but I didn't have to pay for it, it was sponsored. That's way over kill in a sport compact junkyard engine.immobile one is my 2nd choice of oil but I still think it's way overkill. id just use the cheapest name brand you can find and it will be fine. No sense sspending a bunch of money for oil on cheap engine. If it's a fresh junkyard engine just buy the cheapest you can find and change it more often untill it cleans out the engine. Then go to a better oil by change a lot less. Hope that helps.

Posted

It helps. I was thinking along the same lines. I just wanted to try the M1 for now but was thinking about going to castrol and napa filters. I thought I'd be able to change it every race since we only run once a month. I'm planning on rebuilding the motor over the winter and will run probably Royal Purple then. Got a lot to teach Geetar.

Posted (edited)

.Been running plain old castrol gtx for 25years plus in our mini and 2.3 prosedan motors ...the last ten years mix in some lucas and have not had one bearing problem ...the head on one of the prosedan cars cost $4000. alone ..other than two bent valves the head has never been worked on the roller cam has never been pulled out of the head ...this motor runs 8400 rpms .it gets new bearings every year and the ones pulled look great and can go again ...the stock crank 10 under with loose clearance the 57 rods and wiesco pistons are over four years old that is a lot of abuse.. there are a lot of great oils out there castrol has never let us down .so we stick with it . i just checked the green 8 cars bearings you could not tell it has almost three seasons on em and this motor has not always had castrol or lucas in it .

Edited by HiTech
Posted

I like Castrol for sure. I ran it in all my Motorcycles in the past and they took some abuse at times.. :) Had a 76 goldwing I put 285k on it and never had to rebuild it. It was still going strong when I sold it..

Posted

Decide what the clearances are on the motor before you decide. Most synthetics are designed for relatively close tolerances and are not viscous oils. Old motors or freshly built with large tolerances need a viscous oil. If you're using a lite synthetic, I'd add a quart of Lucas, otherwise a plain old Castrol or Valvoline racing oil will do. You might also think about Rotella with a quart of Lucas. If you use a synthetic, it can be run longer because the molecules do not shear under pressure, or they re-form after shearing. The molecules in conventional oils shear under heat and pressure and that's why people say the oil "breaks down". So, what others have said above is correct, if you run synthetic, you can run it several races. Conventional oils once or twice unless you add Lucas (which is synthetic, btw).

Years ago we ran Valvoline with STP, then went to Mobil 1, then Royal Purple, then Shaeffer, then Joe Gibbs and then back to Mobil 1, because it was the easiest to get.

Also, one last thing - I'd run a racing filter. They are high flow and will not restrict oil flow. On a Chevy motor with a standard filter, much of the oil bypasses the filter at high rpm.

Posted

Decide what the clearances are on the motor before you decide. Most synthetics are designed for relatively close tolerances and are not viscous oils. Old motors or freshly built with large tolerances need a viscous oil. If you're using a lite synthetic, I'd add a quart of Lucas, otherwise a plain old Castrol or Valvoline racing oil will do. You might also think about Rotella with a quart of Lucas. If you use a synthetic, it can be run longer because the molecules do not shear under pressure, or they re-form after shearing. The molecules in conventional oils shear under heat and pressure and that's why people say the oil "breaks down". So, what others have said above is correct, if you run synthetic, you can run it several races. Conventional oils once or twice unless you add Lucas (which is synthetic, btw).

Years ago we ran Valvoline with STP, then went to Mobil 1, then Royal Purple, then Shaeffer, then Joe Gibbs and then back to Mobil 1, because it was the easiest to get.

Also, one last thing - I'd run a racing filter. They are high flow and will not restrict oil flow. On a Chevy motor with a standard filter, much of the oil bypasses the filter at high rpm.

Lots of good info there, thanks.

Posted

I used O'reilly's house brand oil (10w 30) and filter at the start of the season and haven't changed either one yet :-( .... maybe its time I change the oil and filter lol

Posted (edited)

I used O'reilly's house brand oil (10w 30) and filter at the start of the season and haven't changed either one yet :-( .... maybe its time I change the oil and filter lol

you win another race and i will donate the oil and filter .. in fact just finish a race with out someone using you for a pin cushion is good for me ....ill get the autozone house brand fer you ... .lol. ...we all know one thing .no oil in the pan is not good .

Edited by HiTech
Posted

Rodney,

Have you ever read the back label on Golden State or Coastal? They don't meet any minimum specs and basicly say don't use for anything. Several yrs ago we were breaking in a new motor and one of the crew bought Coastal and put it in. No one paid any attention to the empty bottles in the trash. We fired the engine, and in 7 min the cam went totally flat.

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