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10 Power Killers & How To Avoid Them


SassyCassie14

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(1) Blown Header Gaskets - Every stock car that goes

into the corner with flames coming out of the exhaust,

every drag car that pops after the finish line, has the

same problem, they all have an exhaust leak. The amount

of power lost depends on the location of the leak -

before the collector is worse than after. The most

critical location being at the header flange. Use

liquid Teflon on both sides of the gaskets and tighten

them every week - you won't have any more problems.

 

(2) Overfilled Oil Pan - With a properly located oil

pump pickup most engines don't need more than 5qts of

oil. Want to see how critical oil level is to power?

Test it: If you have an 8qt pan, run it with both 5 and

8. If it's a drag car where it's easy to see power

changes, you'll be shocked - the difference may be as

much as 3 tenths of a second. Not only is there more

power with less, but there's also less chance of air

mixing with the oil - which I'm sure you understand is

a bad thing.

 

(3) Dirty Air filter - I'm embarrassed to admit it, but

I've actually been tripped up by this one. It never

crossed my mind that a dirty air filter could be the

problem when I chased a bog in the car for weeks. I was

using an oil impregnated air filter and was having the

car painted. I'm sure all of you body guys know the

amount of dust that is involved, how much of it ends up

under the hood and exactly where it went when I fired

up the engine. I had bought into the advertising on how

long that type of filter was supposed to last before

cleaning. Pretty dumb on my part. Anyway, I know it's

simple, but sometimes that's just the thing that will

trip you up.

 

(4) High Coolant Temp - It's not the coolant temp

itself that's the problem, it's the temp of the passage

air must pass through. From a performance standpoint,

it's almost impossible to have the intake and heads too

cold. Ever see the guys putting ice on their intakes?

That's taking it to the extreme. Now on the other hand,

the bottom of the engine does need some heat, including

the oil. Just remember, cold on top, hot on the bottom.

 

(5) Rusty Header Tubes - I watched a racer chase a miss

in his car for half a season. Rust inside the headers

ended up being the problem. I would have never believed

it had I not seen it. I know a lot of you are thinking,

just get the headers coated and there won't be a

problem. Wrong! These coatings do nothing to protect

the inside of the tubes. Even if they were able to

properly coat the insides, the heat would burn it off

in a hurry. The best choice is a stainless steel

header, the next best is to clean out the rust in the

off-season - sandblasting being the easiest method.

 

(6) Engine Driven Fan - This can be the biggest power

killer on the front of the engine. An aftermarket flex

fan doesn't help much either - do this test: take a

flex fan and see how much effort it takes for you to

straighten out the fins. That should give you a good

idea the amount of work the engine must do to drive the

fan. An electric fan is the best option, but you can

also try a fan clutch or a flex fan with a shallow

blade angle.

 

(7) High Inlet Temp - Everybody knows the cooler the

weather, the better the car runs. The better way to

look at it though is the cooler the air reaching the

engine, the better the car runs. If you pull air from

under the hood, you might be shocked to find out how

much higher the temp is than outside the car. Any

modification that brings cold air to the engine will

make a measurable difference in performance, that is,

as long as it's not flow restrictive.

 

(8) Ineffective Cowl/Hood Scoop - The object is to not

only bring cold air to the engine, but to create more

pressure in front of the induction system to allow the

engine to more easily pull the air/fuel mixture in.

It's hard to screw up a forward facing hood scoop, but

having it too low, too small or too far back from the

front of the car can hurt. The cowl hood is not nearly

as forgiving. Some of the things to watch are the

height of the front of the car and how closely the cowl

comes to the windshield. Want to get trick? Do what the

big guys do, use a manometer to find the combination

that gives the highest pressure.

 

(9) Weak Valve Springs - Are you installing a bigger

cam, higher ratio rockers or revving the engine harder?

Think you'll make more power? Maybe not if you don't

address the valve springs. If your engine goes flat at

upper RPMs or during teardown you notice the valve's

keeper grooves are beaten up, you may need more spring

pressure. Of course you could always rent some

Spin-Tron time and find out for sure, but I'm sure that

fits most racers budgets. Many of the cam designers and

valve spring manufactures have this testing device.

Find out which do and take their advice.

 

(10) Misadjusted Lash - The proper lash for your cam is

dictated by the cam design. The cam designer is

basically trying to get the valve to open and close as

quickly as possible without bouncing on the seat when

it closes. A balance between these two desires is where

the most power is made. With the amount of time I've

spent Spin-Tron testing and now that I'm getting older

and less aggressive, I've become a real fan of tighter

lash. If you don't need that last couple of horsepower,

keep the lash at the cam designers spec or tighter -

your valvetrain components will thank you.

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Ok, I'll bite, how does a header with internal rust cause a misfire?

The roughness of the rust inhibits the boundary layer reversion setting the reversionary wave further into the flow - and thus effects cylinder scavenge and evacuation.

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If you have an 8 quart oil system it is designed to hold 8 quarts. It is not worth draining oil out to make more power because the engine will simply not last as long. This will just cause the oil to overheat that much quicker.

Yes and no. There are two reasons for using an oversize pan. First is have more oil for improved cooling, second is to lower the oil level to get that surface tension further away from the crank windage. In a drag racer where cooling is not a major issue many times the lower level is the goal and can translate to much lower parasitic loss (keep in mind that 1hp when multiplied over the gears can be a big diff on the stop watch) whereas for circle racing the cooling is the main goal.

 

One of the reasons I hate rules of thumb - those ten are well known and apply more to drag racing where the event is over in less than 12 seconds rather than circle or other endurance types where longevity is more important than raw power - but knowing them can give thought to how to utilize what you have!

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The only reason rust inside your headers would cause a misfire is because the header tube(s) is rusted all the way through creating a hole causing an air leak. It actually sounds and appears like a misfire, but in reality the engine is making full power.

That's the obvious. But tube surface roughness plays a part and I have seen this on a dyno - it actually showed up more on the oscilloscope - the peak was definitely effected- more than the actual torque value of the engine - so yes still making peak power. But as you know - whenever the scope shows a fire issue - it will eventually take its toll on the plug itself. Even though you are making great power with new plugs - well if that drops due to a constant misfire the plug does not perform overtime as well.

 

Edit: again probably not relevant for circle racing until you get into the 12:1 comp area. But any restriction even in shear of the flow would be like reducing valve overlap...

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Ok, does this mean the Nascar Sprint Cup cars have exhaust leaks, cause i thought i remember them throwing flames when entering the corners coming off the throttle when they race at night? Im not trying to be a smart a$$, just curious? lmao!!

no joke. i think that rule of shooting ducks applies only if it suddenly starts shooting. I have seen way too many hunters with sound exhaust to always go to a leak causing it. That long flame is simply unburnt fuel entering the exhaust (extremely high vacuum on an engine tuned to respond very quickly to vac drop)

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Ok, does this mean the Nascar Sprint Cup cars have exhaust leaks, cause i thought i remember them throwing flames when entering the corners coming off the throttle when they race at night? Im not trying to be a smart a$$, just curious? lmao!!

no joke. i think that rule of shooting ducks applies only if it suddenly starts shooting. I have seen way too many hunters with sound exhaust to always go to a leak causing it. That long flame is simply unburnt fuel entering the exhaust (extremely high vacuum on an engine tuned to respond very quickly to vac drop)

Lol! Thanks, that sounds very logical!

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Ok, does this mean the Nascar Sprint Cup cars have exhaust leaks, cause i thought i remember them throwing flames when entering the corners coming off the throttle when they race at night? Im not trying to be a smart a$, just curious? lmao!!

no joke. i think that rule of shooting ducks applies only if it suddenly starts shooting. I have seen way too many hunters with sound exhaust to always go to a leak causing it. That long flame is simply unburnt fuel entering the exhaust (extremely high vacuum on an engine tuned to respond very quickly to vac drop)

 

yepper.s............ we do not have header leaks ..but do throw some flame out ...nice blueish color .....tried a quart of white lighting .just for the hell of it . years ago ....boy did it help that worn out old motor run ....and talk about flame .wow ..no one wanted to be any where with in 3 feet that tail pipe when i let off ........blistered paint or getting high ...

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