CC57 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 OK, the Mod I bought is not wirred the way I like it or feel it should be. I like to be able to toggle one switch, push the starter button to get the motor spinning, and then toggle the other switch to supply a spark to the engine (helps with high compression or hot motor starts). Plus, I'm installing an alternator (it's a RaceMate, but for discussion purposes, think of it as a single-wire alternator). The car I bought wasn't set up that way. So anyway, what wire to I connect to what? And I have a Ford remote solenoid on the engine plate, plus the solenoid sitting on the starter. And I have a coclkpit panel with an "Ignition" toggle switch on the left of a "Start" push botton in the middle, and a "ACC" toggle to the right of the "Start" push botton. Do I connect the "Ignition" toggle to the large post on the left side of the Ford solenoid? Do I connect the "ACC" toggle to the samll left side post on the front of the Ford solenoid? Rather than running a W1 from the large post on the right side of the Ford solenoid to the starter solenoid, can't I just run a short strap from post to post on the front of the starter? Do I connect the cable to that runs back to the battery to the large post on the right side of the Ford solenoid? Where do I strap the push botton starter between? I'm installing a RaceMate alternator (think "single wire alternator"). Should I connect the wire from it to the large post on the right side of the Ford solenoid? Or where? I would think if I run it straight back to the battery, I would not be able to shut-off the engine. Also, I have pics, but for whatever reason LSSZ isn't letting me upload them. I'm getting an "Upload failed. Please ask the administrator to check the settings and permissions" error message. Help please And thank you very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-Crew Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Ford solenoids typically have two small terminals, I and ACC. They are common (connected internally) but in general, the starter switch goes to the I post, the starter goes to one large post and the battery goes to the other large post. The frame of the solenoid is grounded to the car frame, providing a return for the 12V supplied by the starter switch. That will get things turning. The ignition switch will supply 12V from the battery to the ignition box or coil depending on the system used. Interrupting the voltage to the ignition will kill the engine regardless of if an alternator is used. The output wire of the alternator should go to the downstream side of the master cutoff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC57 Posted March 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 Ok, check out this drawing. If I have this correct: The battery disconnect will, of course, enable/disable ALL power. Switching the "disconnect" to "On" will energize the starter and turn-over the engine, but it will not start. When I enable the "Igntion" toggle, I can then start the engine. When I enable the "ACC" toggle, the Alternator is now in connected and charging the battery. (and panel lights are energized). Does this look correct all? Nick, for some reason some of the lines in my drawing are missing. What format should I save the picture in: JPEG, GIF, PDf, or what? Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 i would put the tack on a toggle by its self ..tacks have a way of going bad and causing your engine to misfire while racing ....this way you can switch it off to help you find that misfire ... over the years have had three tacks do that ............................... i dnt know what tpy of car your running ... we have fords .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-Crew Posted March 10, 2009 Report Share Posted March 10, 2009 I see you have the alternator on the ACC switch. That could be a problem for the switch - remember the alternator can deliver 35 - 100 amps (depending on what type you use) and typical automotive switches are usually 10 - 15 amps maximum. There should be no reason to have the alternator switched but if you still want it that way you should use a relay (you can usually find relays for driving lights rated for 30 amps). You can still damage the relay but if you use a small 35 - 45 amp alternator you might get away with it. Mike has a good point about the tach. I've seen that one a couple of times myself (misfire caused by a bad tach).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC57 Posted March 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thanks for the replies. The alternator produces 15 Amps. I'm not yet sure if I will place it on a toggle or not. May just tie it back to the alternate posts on the battery disconnect switch (the one I purchased has 4 post) and then to the battery. And I'll keep an eye on the Tach. Haven't experienced that yet myself. Thanks again all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEEDDUDE Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thanks for the replies. The alternator produces 15 Amps. I'm not yet sure if I will place it on a toggle or not. May just tie it back to the alternate posts on the battery disconnect switch (the one I purchased has 4 post) and then to the battery. And I'll keep an eye on the Tach. Haven't experienced that yet myself. Thanks again all. Cowboy, take the alternator output and run it to the post on the battery disconnect that's labeled for the alternator (like you stated) w/o a toggle switch. Add another push button somewhere under the hood for starting or setting valves easier. One wire to hot side of solenoid from battery and the other one to one of the small post of the solenoid. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford27 Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 if you have a cut off with out the alt post, can you run the alt wire back to the batt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC57 Posted March 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Cowboy, take the alternator output and run it to the post on the battery disconnect that's labeled for the alternator (like you stated) w/o a toggle switch. good luck Deed, that's pretty much what I've decided to do. Heck, I don't know why I was over complicating this whole mess. I need to adhere to the "KISS principle". I was just over thinking this. Guess I was tryng to justify that EE degree from Aggieland. Add another push button somewhere under the hood for starting or setting valves easier. One wire to hot side of solenoid from battery and the other one to one of the small post of the solenoid. Yea, I've got a portable remote starter to serve that purpose, but if I get ambitious, might need to just install a remote push button on the car. But I've spent enough on this little side project already. I hope like heck it all works out. I had to purchase 2 new pulleys from Racemate for $270. Plus I still need (and want) to settle up with you. I sincerely appreciate your trust. Ford, if I correctly understand your question, yes I can. I'm going to run a wire from the alternator to one of the posts on the battery disconnect switch. And then another wire from another post on the disconnect switch back to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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