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Truck trouble...


Jason

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Ok. I have a 97 F150 with the 4.2 L engine.

 

Tried to start it but it doesnt. It won't even try to turn over. It just makes a sound then clicks. Its weird. I figured it was the battery so I got a guy to help me try to jump it. Well I have plenty of juice in the battery and its not that. So I took the starter off and carried it down to Horeillys. They hooked it up to their machine and it did spin. But it made a weird sound, smelled, and looked all burned up on a wire. So I buy a started and a sillinoid (sp?) and spend a while installing it all. And guess what. It still doesn't start. Same problem. Anyone have any ideas? I think it might be a sensor, relay, or fuse. I pulled out a black box with the serial #'s FOAB 14B192-AA some other #'s are 7162C4. The black box plugs in like a wall socket but it has a central prong and 4 surrounding ones. Anyone have any idea on my problem. I know the bare minimum about this mechanics stuff and have no idea.

 

Thanks,

Jason

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If you bought one of those "lifetime warranty starters", first thing you should do is get rid of it. Period. They ain't worth the time and trouble. I know you are on a college budget, but you'll become a master starter changer by the time you graduate. That rebuilt crap can be bad sitting in the box on the shelf. Spend the bucks on a NEW starter. If you can't swing it, have it (the one you bought) checked. It might be junk out of the box. This last summer my kid spent a full day changing starters twice on his truck because the rebuilt starter he bought was no good.

That spin check at the parts house only tells part of the story. Most of them will spin without a load on them. Sounds maybe like you got a short or burnt pole or wire on the armature.

You also need to check your battery for cranking amps. You can have all the lights and radio in the world, but if the battery has a dead cell, it won't crank it over. Any auto parts house can check it.

Try this stuff, and some of the other guys on this board might have an idea or two.

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Ok thanks txtom. The starter i took in actually did spin but it sounded horrible and was burnt up. And yes you are right. Lately I have been on a tight budget. Guess the Xmas this year from me are REALLY going to suck. lol

 

Jason

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i had the same problem on my ford mustang about 3 months ago......it would go tick tick but wouldnt turn over. i bought a battery just like you and it still didnt work but then i noticed how messed up my terminals were so i went back to the parts house and bought new terminals for the wire ends and a terminal cleaner (little wire brush thing).

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Battery has juice. You guys dont think its that black box i unplugged? When I try to start it if u put ur finger on it u feel it pop. I will take the battery tommorrow but its a pretty new battery. Thx for the help guys.

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If that box is a relay, it should "pop." The pop is internal switching. That means it's not stuck.

Sounds like your starter went bad, and the replacement wasn't any better.

And while you're checking the starter, it is only a little longer to check the battery. Aftermarket batteries can last from 1 day to 5 years, and there ain't no way to predict it.

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Josh had same year ford pick up and motor-his truck would be running and shut off for a split second when driving and then run fine-after awhile it would not run period-died-battery and starter were good -but nothing-talked to some folks and thought it might be cam sensor-replaced it-didnt fix it-had it towed to work and checked system-could not get a reading-I started tracing wires going to the engine and then had my co worker try to start it as I pulled and moved the wires- found a big connector mounted on the passenger side firewall and moved it around and the truck started-I let go and it died-this plug is black and round and has a long screw in the center of it-so I tightened the screw-truck started and ran but had a miss-what we found was the terminals had rusted up and corroded(no sure of spelling).We took screw out of the center of this plug-pulled it apart and cleaned the terminals and reconnected it and never had another problem- ps-hope this helps-my neighbor across the street had same truck and he was going to have it towed to ford- but we told him what we found and it fixed his too-not sure if this is your problem -but it's what fixed Josh's and my neighbors

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I think its because its that blue oval decal that you need to change but thats besides the fact... lol j/k Jason did it act funny in the days before it quit or did it just die with no notice? Also the batery may have juice but might have a dead cell... Are you sure the box you pulled out pertains to the starting circuit.

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Jason, before you buy anymore parts put a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley and make sure the motor will turn over. Then hook your volt meter across the battery and try to crank it. If the voltage drops off to less than 10 volts or so then get a battery. If the battery is ok then do a voltage drop test on your power and ground cables, I'm sure you can find instructions on the internet on how to do that so I don't have to type that much. And also find somebody with a good charging system/starte tester like a VAT 60 and test the starter on the truck. Alot of startesr will spin on the bench but that doesn't mean they will spin a motor.

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Jason,

Do the easy free stuff first...clean the posts & terminals, check the battery water level...it needs to be over the plates. Then take the battery down to have it load tested, like someone said in this thread, you can have all the juice in the world in the battery, but if it won't hold a load, it won't start a Geo Metro! :blink:

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Well, now all these guys and gals have some pretty good advice but I've got a cousin who's brother knows a guy that used to work at a Texaco station back in '82 and he insists that what you need to do is remove your multisync valve (located next to the fansler unit) then remove the 1.8mm nut in the center, soak the nut in 12oz of beer for 13 seconds then remove the nut and drink the beer. Repeat this process over and over till you decide to throw away the nut and trade the truck in on a Chevrolet. Good luck and let us know how it turns out :D

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Legend is getting tough on me, but that's O.K, I can just consider the source....

Wish I had that much brown hair.......

 

Gotta laugh at all the anti-Ford stuff on this thread. When I bought my 2000 F-150 new, I caught all kinds of crap from my kid. He drives a GMC Sonoma. Now that my junk Ford has either towed him home or gone to rescue him 5 or 6 times, he sure has kept his mouth shut.

Doesn't GMC stand for something funny---like "Gotta Mechanic Coming," or "Gay Man's Chevrolet". Boy, my kid hates that one!

I understand the new GM truck has a heated tail gate so your hands don't freeze while you're pushing it to the side of the road........

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Wanna know whats real funny? The battery cables were corroded! lmao I spent all that money and as a last shot scenario I took some steel wool and cleaned the terminals and cables and it fired right up. Good thing this happened though as while I was under neith messin with the starter, I noticed the tranny pan has oil all over it. Appears that the gasket broke and I was running the tranny dry. I checked all the fluids not to long ago so it happened recently. Think how big the repair bill would of been...

lol

Ty for all the help and emotional support. :)

 

So lets see 140,580 miles and still no serious problems. I guess Ford real stands for First On Race Day. :)

 

Jason

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