doitinthedirt Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 not to sound stupid . but did you replace the fuel line between the pump and pickup tube. be there an done that, had to pull bed back off truck twice. second pump on truck thought line would be ok ,not pain in the ass anyway!!!!!!!! just a thought. good luck. been waiting for solutiones!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmbishop Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Not sure but some FIs have an oil pressure switch controlling the fuel pump relay. Pump will run when key is in start - but after that needs oil psi sw to make the ground for fuel pump relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Not sure but some FIs have an oil pressure switch controlling the fuel pump relay. Pump will run when key is in start - but after that needs oil psi sw to make the ground for fuel pump relay. yep thought aboult that during my sleepless night ...popped into my head at 3 am ..lol. ill jump the switch today ....THE LOL.PART has alittle frown to go with it ..trying to keep my patience here .getting low on it .down to 1\8 of a tank and burning it down fast ..............pinched off the return and didnt help ..this truck has ran me around the chicken koop so long ..my mind is cluster muck ..now ...the time where you cant see your hand in front of your face ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 doinitinthedirt .........this is a four door ........two door you can change just the pump and sock ..so didnt get that lucky ....thanks and no sir you wont sound stupid .....the gmc setup on this truck is stupid ....so if anyone should feel stupid its me ..one for not figureing this thing out ..and taking on this nightmare to begin with .....but in a good faith i have all of you guys doing your best to help me out ....ill never forget it ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 mark yes sir i cleared the fuel lines ......i think i may find the problem with what jim said and i thought of at 3 am ....i sure hope so ...remember something symple .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAPA Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Mike....just jack up the radiator cap as far as you can and push the truck back and put a new truck under the cap and lower the cap. Problem solved. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Mike....just jack up the radiator cap as far as you can and push the truck back and put a new truck under the cap and lower the cap. Problem solved. lol man finaly someone with an answer ...never thought aboult that ...i was thinking more like bon fire have some marsh mellows i need to brown .. ........i almost said yes again ..someone just rang my doorbell as you were typing seeing if i wanted to sell it .....that was hard as heck to say no ... Â Â Â PAPA THANKS FOR THE LAUGH ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingaces Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Didn't read all the post but if you have spark and fuel you need to pull all the plugs and clean them, they are more than likely fuel foul and will not fire, also disconnect the coil and crank the engine over with the plugs out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KISS_Racing Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Were you able to find anyone with a Tech II? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Were you able to find anyone with a Tech II? firestone is going to scan it ..just have to wait for tim to get back off of vacation ...dont know if it will tell me anything ......you know there seems to be to many things going on with this truck AT DIFFERENT TIMES .work out one problem .create another ..work that out .create another ...check out the oil sending unit .it shows to be ok .but then agin .alot of things show to be ok at one time or another ...this is whats killing me ..cant narrow it down now ....im just to the point of defeat ..i have had all i want ...one thing i created today ..is i wasted the pressure regulator ..got a better pinch on the return line .and fuel pressure jumped to 100 plus ...now i hear the fuel flowing through the regulator or into the intake ..and droped the prime pressure to 54.. so lost 6 pounds ...now i have to pull it apart for the third time ..oh joy joy ..getting good at that ....i think the more i work on it .and find something i can put my finger on .only to get the same results or worst ..it makes me feel just alittle dumber ....i hate to lose . start to wonder if this truck has a bad wireing harness ..had a brand new vorager back in 92 ..when i worked for dodge ....you turned the key on ..and speeddometer would hit 100 mph ..changed speed sensor which was one problem back then .. didnt fix it ...sspent three weeks on that van .chasing don the problem ..you would find the problem n one wire repair it and it would jump around ...finaly after two weeks of razing hell with dodge ..they ordered me a new harness ....two hours to change it .and that van was gone ..i would have already changed this one had my doner harness would not have been cut up when they pulled the motor .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KISS_Racing Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 We have seen fuel pressure issues on GM's turn out to be battery and or electrical. We have solved them on older vehicles by tying in a relay to make sure the voltage at the pump stays at a constant. I am still trouble that it wont stay running? Do you have a good length of speaker wire or equivalent? If so, put one side on the pump plug and the other side run it up to the cab and attach your volt meter. Watch the voltage when you go to crank... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 We have seen fuel pressure issues on GM's turn out to be battery and or electrical. We have solved them on older vehicles by tying in a relay to make sure the voltage at the pump stays at a constant. I am still trouble that it wont stay running? Do you have a good length of speaker wire or equivalent? If so, put one side on the pump plug and the other side run it up to the cab and attach your volt meter. Watch the voltage when you go to crank... ...well i wasted the regulator after pinching off the line .. ..so ill have to change that first ,,,,, .. im going to replace the positive battery cable ...all of it ...this shows to be a electrical problem .. when i finaly chased down the primer wire for the pump .. i went direct to battery .....and thats when i got the pressure to jump .just for a second had to double think what i saw ..to 70 psi ..but never got close again ......on its own .....what would the voltage be when trying to start it at the pump ..11.9.or better ...as for battery i questioned it ..checked it at work .ok .even used the battery out of my wifes car which is new ..didnt help .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KISS_Racing Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 ...well i wasted the regulator after pinching off the line .. ..so ill have to change that first ,,,,, .. im going to replace the positive battery cable ...all of it ...this shows to be a electrical problem .. when i finaly chased down the primer wire for the pump .. i went direct to battery .....and thats when i got the pressure to jump .just for a second had to double think what i saw ..to 70 psi ..but never got close again ......on its own .....what would the voltage be when trying to start it at the pump ..11.9.or better ...as for battery i questioned it ..checked it at work .ok .even used the battery out of my wifes car which is new ..didnt help .. We prefer to see 12.6v of course age of wiring can make a differnce. The higher the better. What I'm more concerned about is if voltage is dropping then pressure will drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97car Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 I was told years ago that on GM injection you only have about a + or - 5psi window that will allow it to start, but that was back in 1989. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KISS_Racing Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 This is what I am finding: "60 psi of fuel pressure anything less than 50 is no good" Â We have always looked for 56 - 58 psi... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 This is what I am finding: "60 psi of fuel pressure anything less than 50 is no good"Â We have always looked for 56 - 58 psi... well backed up to what will mentioned ..pressure reg .....even though i wasted the other one ....after adding replacement in which did raze the fuel pressure to 63...and hold at start over at 60 ...but it would fall off fast after i turned it off .....down to 30 ....i then for the heck of it ...seeing i still had the old injectors .i took the old reg and installed it .....63....and hold after key off .57;;;; so now that i have got that part working ...ill see what happens when i put it back together ....... i aint getting my hopes up .tired of that .....ill jump when it runs ...but i dont think i have evrything right just yet ..but atleast i can go forward from here ..........ok i hope ..lol.........................kiss i have gotten them to fire up at 58 before ...this one would not hold that high when starting it .....until now .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 on the 92nd post ..is a good one finaly   ITS ALIVE .........IM JUMPING ...IN HAPPY ....I ALMOST SAID ALMOST HAD A JOY JOY TEAR .........IT HASNT BEEN DRIVEN YET .STILL HAVE THE WATER PUMP AND STUFF TO PUT BACK ON ........NOTHING COMPARED TO THE OTHER STUFF IVE DONE ....      ...... JUST LIKE TO SAY alittle thanks A MEDIUM THANKS .....AND NOT BuT LEAST .A VERY BIG THANKS ...YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST ............THANKS NICK FOR KEEPING SPEEDZONE ALIVE ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmbishop Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 I don't want to rain on your parade - but be sure to tell the owner that with as many things that contributed to the issue - there are probably just as many that are on the horizon.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 I don't want to rain on your parade - but be sure to tell the owner that with as many things that contributed to the issue - there are probably just as many that are on the horizon.... well you rained ..............it was running like a dream .fact thought i was in a dream ...my son was standing there ..my wife was standing ..there ..i was with em too .......ran for aboult 15.minutes ...just as the thermo was opening ..walla ..started running rough ..started clatering ..pinging and dropping cylinders ......now it will just barely run with full throtle ....dang ......sorta back where i started again .....im letting it cool off and see where it goes ......fuel pressure is right where it should be .......oil pressure ,temp was all good ...pulled the temp sensor plug .didnt change anything .....maybe this is something someone has seen now ......cuz im worn out and fresh out of ideals ....the party didnt last long .........yes jm i was going to tell them to dump// it as fast as they could ...damn that motor was sounding so sweet .as smooth as babys behind ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 fired right up this morning.. ran for 8 minutes before starting to act up ..pulled ignitor ..ran it through ten test runs at work ..got her good and hot ...passed ...so next step ....map sensor good ....oil pressure still good ...fuel pressure still good ........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97car Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Spark knock sensor? Located on the lower right side of the block on the 350 I had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmbishop Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 So runs open loop but not after going into closed. you have already removed the temp sensor to force into open with no change (but you did this after transition to closed and the ecu did not transition back into open - aka limp home mode). Â Try leaving the temp sensor disconnect from a cold start. If it continues to run after getting to above 140 degrees - you may have a bad ecu. Â Was this thing hit by lightning - sounds like some kinda surge damage to the electronics may have occured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2011 hit by bad luck ..and it found me ..... tracted down a tech 2 ....thanks lalo ...now this old guy has not used anything remotely looking like this ..14 years between the last time i used one ......and it was red with snap on ....so there i was learning this new set up .....wasnt as hard as i thought it would be ....here is what i have found ......the temp sensor is at 3.2.. cold .the motor never ran long enough to follow it ...so gave up on that for now .....the timeing was off .. 29 --.......it is now 20 -.... the code kept showing cam sensor .....cleared it .and it later showed the same thing ....so replaced it .......didnt help .actualy shut down sooner ........also had ckp code ...but after clearing it .and running it till it shut down ..i only picked up the cam .p .s .... seeing i changed the crank sensor plug .and i was smart enough for once to think ahead and cut the plug off my doner truck for the cam sensor ...after looking at it closer tonight. ..possibly bad connection i test that plug in the beginning ..after changing the sensor tonight . it shut down sooner ...hmmm would not surprise me .......im just glad it starts ..i figure it will end soon ....ill get all the eggs in one basket ....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrX Posted April 9, 2011 Report Share Posted April 9, 2011 Is the codes coming on when the truck is running or after it stalls. If it after it most likely a faults code. Look at the cam retard it should be reading 0deg. +/-2 deg. at 1000rpm or above. If not set right it cause the injector to be off time. git it up to temp or as hot as possible wash the cam Retard offset on the scanner at a 1000 rpm if it not at 0 deg. loosing dis. turn dis. to compensate for negative reading rotate dis. counterclockwise direction. Make shorer you look at it above a 1000 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted April 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2011 Is the codes coming on when the truck is running or after it stalls. If it after it most likely a faults code. Look at the cam retard it should be reading 0deg. +/-2 deg. at 1000rpm or above. If not set right it cause the injector to be off time. git it up to temp or as hot as possible wash the cam Retard offset on the scanner at a 1000 rpm if it not at 0 deg. loosing dis. turn dis. to compensate for negative reading rotate dis. counterclockwise direction. Make shorer you look at it above a 1000 rpm. thanks ill do just that ......the code is showing up just as it starts to act up ...it wont run long enough to get a good warm .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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