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1971 EL CAMINO


Double D racing

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A lot of that depends on what you want to spend and what you're fabrication limitations are.

 

Let me say first I am not a dealer for this company, but I have had 100% spotless success with Classic Performance Products (classicperform.com) over the past few years and they sell a COMPLETE kit for that truck which includes quality OE level parts (PBR Calipers like 3rd and 4th gen Camaros) and all the hardware you need for a complete front and back disc brake conversion. I have personally used their components and they are top notch. For roughly $1500 you will have everything you need for a 4-wheel conversion save for wheel bearing grease, brake fluid and caliper slider grease.

 

I have a conversion chart around here somewhere that tells me what factory parts will swap between GM full-size cars of the 60s and 70s, I'll find that and post it up later today if you're looking for a craigslist/junkyard swap!

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the 71 came with an option for disc fronts. And was a very popular option. May find some in the boneyard pretty cheap.

for coolness i would go with the after market kit. but you can do real close to the same with all oem (spindle\knuckle, caliper bracket, backplate etc.) and add good am calipers and rotors for about half the cost. and detail the parts as YOU want em... for the rears the aftermarkets may be a better choice all around... the only stock rear discs are much later models and may need a bunch of mods that will drive the cost.

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ok im not too concerned with the rear ,i jus wanna get that uneven pull out of the front end.i have lots of camaro parts but i assume they wont work????(spindles,calipers,tubular a frames,springs...)

That’s actually not that uncommon a question; you are talking about what is referred to as the “tall spindle” swap. A spindle from a ’70.5-’82 Camaro can be used on a ’68-’72 A-Body one of two ways; you can either use the stock upper control arms with a lot of shims (and possibly longer studs for the cross-shaft) or you can use Global West’s Negative Camber Curve Upper Control Arms that actually help to fix positive camber gain issues inherent to the A-bodies. There are some small modifications required to run the Global West uppers and while they aren’t cheap Nick would be the first to tell you about the handling benefits of a positive camber gain curve vs. a negative camber gain. The part number is CNR-42AP, you can use (if memory serves) the 11” or 12” brake rotors available stock on the Camaros on those factory spindles for a pretty decent brake upgrade! Keep in mind you will need to replace the factory proportioning valve and in some cases the master cylinder to swap to front discs.

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That’s actually not that uncommon a question; you are talking about what is referred to as the “tall spindle” swap. A spindle from a ’70.5-’82 Camaro can be used on a ’68-’72 A-Body one of two ways; you can either use the stock upper control arms with a lot of shims (and possibly longer studs for the cross-shaft) or you can use Global West’s Negative Camber Curve Upper Control Arms that actually help to fix positive camber gain issues inherent to the A-bodies. There are some small modifications required to run the Global West uppers and while they aren’t cheap Nick would be the first to tell you about the handling benefits of a positive camber gain curve vs. a negative camber gain. The part number is CNR-42AP, you can use (if memory serves) the 11” or 12” brake rotors available stock on the Camaros on those factory spindles for a pretty decent brake upgrade! Keep in mind you will need to replace the factory proportioning valve and in some cases the master cylinder to swap to front discs.

ok so i am assummng the no power brake mastercylinder wont handle disc ???

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ok so i am assummng the no power brake mastercylinder wont handle disc ???

 

It will but the peddle feel and pressure on the front calipers won't be right, you can upgrade to a non-power disc. master cylinder (which I did on my '68 Chevy C10) and have the benefits of disc. brakes without the expense of a power brake conversion. I also simply ran full power out of the master cylinder to the front disc. brakes (as per the factory proportioning valve setup) and ran a brake bias adjuster on the back brake line so I could dial in the front to rear bias just like I wanted. You can buy the simple bias adjusters at most performance parts stores for about $50. For what it's worth I love the peddle feel with my setup and run the rear-bias up when it's dry and down when it's wet for decent braking power.

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It will but the peddle feel and pressure on the front calipers won't be right, you can upgrade to a non-power disc. master cylinder (which I did on my '68 Chevy C10) and have the benefits of disc. brakes without the expense of a power brake conversion. I also simply ran full power out of the master cylinder to the front disc. brakes (as per the factory proportioning valve setup) and ran a brake bias adjuster on the back brake line so I could dial in the front to rear bias just like I wanted. You can buy the simple bias adjusters at most performance parts stores for about $50. For what it's worth I love the peddle feel with my setup and run the rear-bias up when it's dry and down when it's wet for decent braking power.

sweet,cause the motor im puttin in aint gonna pull enough vaccume to assist yhe booster....

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Another option - when you have the room - is to scrap the vacc and go with hydro boost. A friend of mine did that on his 69 bronco using all GM stuff from a 97 Sierra donor. I am in the planning stage to do this on my C10 (I have to idle it to 950 just to have 14" and actually be able to finish a stop with a load behind it) - and will duplicate for my 57 (idle to 1200 to get 14"). It is really just the PS pump, some custom hoses and the master cyl... the hoses he made - and were still the highest expense. Everything else was donor stuff. About 100 bucks.

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