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BUILDING UP A 289 .BORED 40 AND REALLY IN GREAT SHAPE ..NEAR PERFECT ...GOING TO GO WITH A ROLLER SET UP ...NOT TO WILD THOUGH .FOR STREET DRIVEING ......... DECIDING ON HEADS IS THE MAIN PROBLEM ...351.S KEEP COMEING UP .....SO THOSE WHO BUILT THIS MOTOR ....PUT IN YOUR TWO CENTS ...JUST POKEING AROUND HERE ...CAST HEADS ARE NOT OUR ONLY OPTION ... DO WE WANT SINGLE PlAIN OR DUAL PLAIN INTAKES ..WHAT RUNNER SIZE FOR STREET ROD WOULD BE BEST ..DONT WANT TO OVER DO IT NORE UNDER DO IT ..COMPLAMENT ITSELF .. I KNOW POEPLE GO OUT AND MIX AND MATCH PARTS ONLY TO NOT PERFORM WHERE IT SHOULD HAVE ... I DONT JUST THROW SOMETHING LIKE THAT TOGETHER ..ILL RESERCH ........SO GIVE IT YOUR BEST SHOT ON IDEALS .... .....PS I DONT Care to hear anything aboult changeing to a 302 .....sick of that ideal

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Not a big ford guy so only have some general info,

 

The 302 heads flow awesome for street use right of the box. On street I reco dual plane manifold - gives better off idle than single or open. You can cut a notch in the divider (about 2 inches wide 1\2 inch deep) to get some mid- top power, or use a phenolic spacer if hood clearance allows. On a street rod 289 small and rough runners with 1.77 valves keep the fuel well atomized at lower RPM - nice and crisp response between the stop lights! A good friend of mine built a rather soupy 289 for his 66 merc - he used 289 K heads and put 1.77s in it. Watch the pushrod guides in a pre 69 302, they may be close tolerance - may want to blow em out and run guide plates.

 

289\302 heads have 7\16 bolts - 351 heads have 1\2 - gotta use thrust washers and spot face or you will have issues!

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Drove a drag race car that was a 4speed 289 w/351 heads. Wasn't my car but my memory of working on the engine was that it had aftermarket "stepped" head bolts that were 1/2 dia on the shank and 7/16 "into the block".

 

use 351w intake gaskets and research whether some water holes need to be drilled between the deck and the head

 

jay

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For all around use, a dual plane will serve you best.

Early 351 heads have the smaller combustion chamber (69-74) which can be expanded to 1.94/1.60. Understand you can even use chevy valves, which you prob have on hand.

Or get a set of alum offshore heads prebuilt with the 2.02/1.60.

In my reading about the small block, it would appear that about 190 intake runner with above mentioned valves, a short duration cam, close lobe profile (an area I have no comprehension of) performs better for all around use than cam that has lot of overlap(reversion back into intake at low rpm.) This small block can be over carbed, and most put Holley 750 which is not all that effective except at upper end. (Most iron heads this vintage flows tad over 200cfm unless massaged heavily.)

You might want to consider gear drive rather than chain. The setup is very inexpensive and easy to install. Also, another inexpensive upgrade is to the Duraspark electronic ignition, available everywhere.

One can also upgrade (higher voltage) further using GM HEI "module" with the Duraspark. Google it.

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For all around use, a dual plane will serve you best.

Early 351 heads have the smaller combustion chamber (69-74) which can be expanded to 1.94/1.60. Understand you can even use chevy valves, which you prob have on hand.

Or get a set of alum offshore heads prebuilt with the 2.02/1.60.

In my reading about the small block, it would appear that about 190 intake runner with above mentioned valves, a short duration cam, close lobe profile (an area I have no comprehension of) performs better for all around use than cam that has lot of overlap(reversion back into intake at low rpm.) This small block can be over carbed, and most put Holley 750 which is not all that effective except at upper end. (Most iron heads this vintage flows tad over 200cfm unless massaged heavily.)

You might want to consider gear drive rather than chain. The setup is very inexpensive and easy to install. Also, another inexpensive upgrade is to the Duraspark electronic ignition, available everywhere.

One can also upgrade (higher voltage) further using GM HEI "module" with the Duraspark. Google it.

THANKS ..I WAS THINKING IN THE 190 INTAKE RUNNER .DUAL PLAIN WAS WHAT IM LEANING TOWARDS ...TRYING TO STAY AWAY FROM OVER KILL .AND NOT PERFORMING THE WAY IT SHOULD ..BETTER HAVE SMALLER AND MORE BALLANCED THAN LARGE AND CANT USE IT ...LOOKING TO KEEP IN THE 9.S COMPRESSION BUT WILL TAKE IT TO 10 IF NEEDED ...MY BROTHER WANTS IT TO HAUL BUTT BUT DRIVE IT DAILY ..MAKES IT JUST ALITTLE HARDER TO DO ..RACERS LIKE US WANT MORE ...LOL...IM GOING TO GET WITH SOME CAM COMPANYS .COME UP WITH A CAM ..JUST LOOKING TO FIND A GOOD SET UP THAT WILL COMPLIMENT ITSELF....

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Drove a drag race car that was a 4speed 289 w/351 heads. Wasn't my car but my memory of working on the engine was that it had aftermarket "stepped" head bolts that were 1/2 dia on the shank and 7/16 "into the block".

 

use 351w intake gaskets and research whether some water holes need to be drilled between the deck and the head

 

jay

LOOKING AT 70 TO 73 .351 SEEMS TO BE THE BEST YEARS ..BUT ALSO LOOKING AT ALUMINUM HEADS ..COST IS GOING TO BE ABOULT THE SAME .

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IMO, one of the weakest points in this motor is the external balance. I just can't hardly get my head around that one. Recommend you consider also internal balance which would require 0 weight on harm balancer and flywheel/flex plate.

Have read some documentation where long narrow unpolished intake runners somehow develop better flow than if ported and polished. That's another hard to get head around.

Am sure you have found the site that offers best price on alum heads built up(I have found anyway). If not, PM and I will provide info.

Unfortunately 65 engine compartment real small and cleveland or M heads not conducive without major hacking.

Flow charts indicate "big" 2.19 intake 4bbl heads not very effective until above 7500prm.

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Jracer and JWM mentioned the 1/2 inch holes in the 152 heads and the 7/16 bolts in the 302--

 

ARP makes a real nice set of stepped bolts; the part number for the kit with washers is 254-3708.

 

A few of my Ford friends have used this set and really liked them.

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69-70 351W 4bbl heads were the hot ticket in the day. Bigger valves and small chambers. 2bbl heads through around 75 had the bigger valves but open chambers. After 75 or so all 351 heads became common with the 302, same smaller valve size. My understanding is all versions are restrictive on the exhaust side. You can probably buy something aftermarket that is better out of the box than anything you can get with ported stock heads. Stay small on the carb, 600-650 range is all you can use. A mid-70s Duraspark system is easy to drop in and still has vacuum and mechanical advance, the advance is easy to modify as well.

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HT,

 

i'll get you a phone# for John Hamilton. His brother is Tom who is a member on here. John built my 306 and all I can tell is it was one bad manbajamba. John will not steer you wrong on that 289. He prefers carb cars over injected.

 

On a side note, one of the quickest streetcars in the 90's here in SA was a Falcon with a 289 & a powerglide. That thing turned some crazy RPM's...

 

Mark

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thanks guys ...joe longoria dragged raced 289.s for many years ....... turn those babys 10000 on stock rods and bolts ...my brother had a 289 with a good cam way back when ..that burger would get it ..

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69-70 351W 4bbl heads were the hot ticket in the day. Bigger valves and small chambers. 2bbl heads through around 75 had the bigger valves but open chambers. After 75 or so all 351 heads became common with the 302, same smaller valve size. My understanding is all versions are restrictive on the exhaust side. You can probably buy something aftermarket that is better out of the box than anything you can get with ported stock heads. Stay small on the carb, 600-650 range is all you can use. A mid-70s Duraspark system is easy to drop in and still has vacuum and mechanical advance, the advance is easy to modify as well.

wanted to keep the carb in that range ..automatic ..

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