willie98 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 My carb (holley 4412) was loading up on me, so i took the bowl off and it was a little dirty inside. I cleaned everything up and put a carb kit in it. The car ran great for the first couple minutes, then it started dumping fuel again. I took it apart again, blew it out, and put it back together and then it ran good again until i got to the track and made the first 3 laps or so then it did it again. Now i dont know what to do. Could it be a bad power valve, or are my jets to big? Anybody have any ideas. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cummins359 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 check that power valve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackjack Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Check filter, and make sure if the fuel cell has foam that its not breaking down trashing the system. If not that try another needle,seat. JMO Hope you get it fixed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie98 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 It has a new needle and seat and a new fuel filter. I just pulled all the foam out and its wasnt breaking down there wasnt any in the filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackjack Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Take a wrench and beat the s%@t out of it! Just Playing. PM Flying Aces. He's great on all Holleys. If that dont fix it let me know if you need 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie98 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Take a wrench and beat the s%@t out of it! Just Playing. PM Flying Aces. He's great on all Holleys. If that dont fix it let me know if you need 1. Thats where i went wrong. I used a hammer instead of a wrench, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KISS_Racing Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Take a wrench and beat the s%@t out of it! Just Playing. PM Flying Aces. He's great on all Holleys. If that dont fix it let me know if you need 1. Thats where i went wrong. I used a hammer instead of a wrench, lol. You checked float level on a level surface? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie98 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 You checked float level on a level surface? Yes, right at the bottom of the peep hole in the side, so when you rock the car a little comes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dy97 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 You checked float level on a level surface? Yes, right at the bottom of the peep hole in the side, so when you rock the car a little comes out. did u change the powervalve and it still did it ? if you said you took it apart cleaned it.. it ran good for af ew mins.. then did it again.. took it apart again and blew it out again and it ran good again.. then it has to be getting trash in the needle and seat what kind of fuel are you running?? if your running anything with ethanol in it (smells like tequila).. example.. any pump gas.. if you have a rubber line going from the filter to the carb check to make sure its not coming apart.. ethanol eats everything! gaskets paint rubber.. i hate it ! oh oh ! one more idea.. check the air bleeds! they get dirt in them and get stopped up.. makes it run extremely rich at idle.. if you dont know what they are look down on the carb from straight above in front of the venturies (the 2 big round holes) ull see 4 tiney round holes.. blow them out with carb cleaner.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmbishop Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Thinking out loud here... If it was mechanical (parts such as pwr valve, check balls etc) it would not run good after a clean out, then load back up - it would run bad al the time. Sounds like fuel contamination - when it first fills the bowl you have good fuel (water goes to bottom where jets are and would not accumulate - however with some blends the water can be suspended in an oil and float) at the jet line and slowly the bad floating stuff concentrates enough to work down. Some sludges can be in the airbleed line - when dry they shrink - when wetted they expand and block. But air bleeds are what push the fuel - I would think you would lean not load... acc pump circuit could be doing this as it takes time (but maybe only thity seconds) to de airlock the diaphram cavity. Pump ressure to high? edit: Bad float... Also be sure to rule out ignition or valve problems - these effect the signal the carb uses to meter...I recal one time we threw together an engine from parts left over from past grenades - had an issue like what you are describing but ran it anyway - dropped an intake valve (the guide was bad messing up seating - as the engine warmed it got worse..) I would take it apart and soak it for at least an hour in the gallon can of berrymans carb cleaner to rule out the above (be sure to blow and rinse all passages with pressure cans of carb cleaner). Then run the car with a new filter from a one gallon can of clean fresh gas set on the floor next to the front tire to rule out a lighter than fuel or particulate pollution issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAPA Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Wheres Mr Rogers when you need him? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usra43 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Same thing happend to me. It was the splash guard that hangs in there on the metering block. It was bouncing around in there. It's a black plastic piece on the top of the metering block. When you take the bowl off, it's right there on top. I took it out and my problem went away. Some say you need it in there but i say nope you don't! If you have one in there, take it out. Holley leaves them in there for street application. So, it has something to do with the carb not meant to be on a stock car out of the box. I found mine at the bottom of my bowl when i took it off. It fell off and was blocking my jets! I took it off and threw it across my shop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usra43 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Also Check the squirters. You may need extensions on them if you don't have that so the gas is closer to the venturies. It's not getting fuel through the venturies correctly. Could be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truck99 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Same thing happend to me. It was the splash guard that hangs in there on the metering block. It was bouncing around in there. It's a black plastic piece on the top of the metering block. When you take the bowl off, it's right there on top. I took it out and my problem went away. Some say you need it in there but i say nope you don't! If you have one in there, take it out. Holley leaves them in there for street application. So, it has something to do with the carb not meant to be on a stock car out of the box. I found mine at the bottom of my bowl when i took it off. It fell off and was blocking my jets! I took it off and threw it across my shop! The part you're talking about is the vent baffle. The best bet is to remove the small black one and install one built for circle track racing - they are completely different. I agree with the fuel contamination idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ram#9 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 we were having a issue with contamination so we installed a second filter between the pump and carb and haven't had a problem since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie98 Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Would a high volume fuel pump cause this problem to. I'm just wondering cuz I put a complete carb kit in it and it's a brand new distributor. I though maybe it was ignition so I put a new module, rotor, and cap and coil. And the heads are fresh from the machine shop so I think it's not the valvetrain. So could the fuel pump just be forcing to much fuel in the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truck99 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Would a high volume fuel pump cause this problem to. I'm just wondering cuz I put a complete carb kit in it and it's a brand new distributor. I though maybe it was ignition so I put a new module, rotor, and cap and coil. And the heads are fresh from the machine shop so I think it's not the valvetrain. So could the fuel pump just be forcing to much fuel in the carb. 4412 carbs like no more than about 7psi fuel pressure with 6 or so being closer to ideal. If your pump is making more pressure than that, it's a good possibility that it's part of the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 99 yah came up with an answer when we kept haveing problems ...vibration was our problem ....beat the heck out of the needle and seat ..last a few laps and flooded ....but while driving back into the pits . it would level off most of the time ...even went to a new carb and did the same .. . just like this mans carb is doing ...may not be the problem ..but worth looking into ...also an off road needle and seat worked better .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truck99 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 99 yah came up with an answer when we kept haveing problems ...vibration was our problem ....beat the heck out of the needle and seat ..last a few laps and flooded ....but while driving back into the pits . it would level off most of the time ...even went to a new carb and did the same .. . just like this mans carb is doing ...may not be the problem ..but worth looking into ...also an off road needle and seat worked better .. That's right - a common problem with the 4412 on the Ford 2.3 motors and some other 4-cylinders. I just assumed that willie's motor was a V-8, but he really didn't say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Double D racing Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 drain the tank and start over with fresh fuel....seperation dont take long especially with the summer heat we had.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willie98 Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 It's a 350. I'm going to drain the tank and put a stock fuel pump on it just to try since I have a brand new one sitting on the shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usra43 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 99 yah came up with an answer when we kept haveing problems ...vibration was our problem ....beat the heck out of the needle and seat ..last a few laps and flooded ....but while driving back into the pits . it would level off most of the time ...even went to a new carb and did the same .. . just like this mans carb is doing ...may not be the problem ..but worth looking into ...also an off road needle and seat worked better .. That's right - a common problem with the 4412 on the Ford 2.3 motors and some other 4-cylinders. I just assumed that willie's motor was a V-8, but he really didn't say. Just have a regulater on it, have the carb re-built and check the fuel pick-up in the cell and be done with it. Screw it. Pretty sure it's a V-8 or he don't need to be in street stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiTech Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 99 yah came up with an answer when we kept haveing problems ...vibration was our problem ....beat the heck out of the needle and seat ..last a few laps and flooded ....but while driving back into the pits . it would level off most of the time ...even went to a new carb and did the same .. . just like this mans carb is doing ...may not be the problem ..but worth looking into ...also an off road needle and seat worked better .. That's right - a common problem with the 4412 on the Ford 2.3 motors and some other 4-cylinders. I just assumed that willie's motor was a V-8, but he really didn't say. i didnt know what he had either ..but heck throw it out there anyway ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmbishop Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 (Note to self - watch for flying parts when-ever around usra) I always recomend a filter at the tank and before the carb - the tank end can be a larger rating (around 10-20 microns) as if smaller you may restrict the draw from the pump - a cleanable screen type is great for this one. At the carb end you want 5-10 microns with enough surface area to still allow 90 gph flow rate at 8 psi - since ideally you will run at 6-7 psi and with a v8 wot see 60-65 gph max you should not have any problems with just an off shelf Fram high flow. Never ever use the viton needle and seat that comes in the jiffy kit - get the high performance one that is sold all by itself! High volume is not necessarily high pressure - I have used stock pumps with large lines and not had problems! A good thing to check pressure and it not that hard to do - just plumb a temporary t into the line and connect a 0-15 guage. Check while running steady at 3000rpm - then while surging it from 1000-3000 the pressure will drop as fuel is used and raise when not - you should only see 6-7 lbs. If higher use a different pump. I do not reccomend regulators unless you absolutely HAVE to (volume needs exceed stock pump even with larger lines) - not only something else to fail - but also the non return type restricts volume even at full flow which then REQUIRES a Hv pump - the return type needs a second line back to the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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