Starting a new engine

[SassyCassie14]

Nothing is more nerve-racking than starting an engine

for the first time. Here are some tips and reminders

for getting it right:

 

Prime the oil pump - It's best to do it right before

startup, but anything is better than nothing - even if

you just pull the coil wire and crank it (assuming

you're not breaking-in a flat tappet cam).

 

Set the lash - I recommend setting the lash on the

tight side for startup. Given the low rpm it probably

doesn't matter, but it is a move in the right

direction.

 

Set the distributor - This is where many racers have

problems. Here are two methods I use:

 

* Rotor location - Turn the crank to 30+ degrees before

TDC on the compression stroke of cylinder number one

and install the distributor so the rotor points to

number one plug wire on the cap. For more accuracy,

consider any mechanical/vacuum advance the distributor

may add at startup, and which edge of the rotor tip

actually does the firing - usually it's the trailing.

 

* Spark - The method above should work like a charm,

but for a little more assurance you can pull the number

one plug wire off at the spark plug, loosen the

distributor so it moves easily, install a spare plug in

the end of the wire, ground the plug by putting the

threads or ground strap in contact with grounded metal

on the car, turn the ignition on and then quickly turn

the distributor back and forth with your hand to find

the exact point where the spark happens.

 

Crank extra timing in it - Everyone wants to be safe

when they start a new engine, which leads many to

starting with little or no ignition advance - which

leads to hot exhaust valves and glowing headers. Don't

be afraid to run more than normal - with little or no

load, or rpm; nothing bad can happen.

 

Double check the plug wires - Want a sure way to set

your hair on fire? Just mess up the plug wires and put

your face over the carb as the engine is cranked. If

that doesn't sound like fun, give the wires one last

look-over right before startup.

 

Use a known carburetor - This is no time to be

trouble-shooting a carburetor. If you have any trouble

getting the engine to start, you can rule out the carb

since you used one of known quality.

 

Check fluids - Not many people miss the oil, but I have

seen the aftermath of engines run without coolant - not

pretty.

[Danielsen Motorsports]

"even if you just pull the coil wire and crank it (assuming

you're not breaking-in a flat tappet cam)."

 

Wrong. Do not crank a new motor to get oil pressure no matter what kind of camshaft. All of your assembly lube on camshaft and lifters will no longer be there to help break in and protect the camshaft/lifters. The most creditical part of starting a new motor (Camshaft Breakin). Upon firing the motor dont use a timing light. Simply grab the distributor and turn timinig into it where the motor sounds and feels the best. Most likely that will be between 50 and 60 degrees dont be scared the motor loves it and takes all the pressure off the valve train. You do that along with the other steps the camshaft will live a long and healthy life or at least until you throw a rod.

[4cylfordz]

agreed... I prime the pump then fire them up and immediately turn the idle up to 23-2500rpm (for new flat tappet cams a little lower for rollers) and adjust the distributor till you hear the motor level out. if you start them on race fuels or premium gas depending on the compression ratio they will have no problem running extra timing at low rpm. the best help that I can recommend is using a good quality Break-In oil for anything with a flat tappet cam roller or hydraulic. I personally use a high zinc moly lube paste on my cams rather than cam lube. it offers far superior cling and protection characteristics especially for motors that will sit for a while before initial start up.

[thumper]

This is great for V8 engines but does not work with 4 bangers that have a crank mounted oil pump.What I do is asemble the engine with white lube including the oil pump and when the engine is ready to start I pull the plugs,loosten the oil pump then crank the engine until oil runs outthr filter housing.Then I tighten the filter and crank again until theres oil pressure.I crank and stop a couple of times to burp any air.Then install the plugs anf fire it up.Theres no concern about cams or lifters,most are multivalves and have very little spring pressure.The rotary pumps however can be hard to prime like a water pump on a well.Leaving off the oil filter reduces the resistance the pump has to overcome while full of air.Once the pump cavity is primed the upper end is easy to bleed.After a 30 minute break in its ready to turn 8000 rpm and haul ther mail.