CC57 Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Looking for recommendations from those with experience regarding a high CFM cooling fan and a remote oil filter kit. Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4cylfordz Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 are you going to be using it or street or oval track applications? for oval track I buy the largest cfm with the cheapest price on eBay think they are around 2200 for 35 bucks, that way when they get smashed I don't lose allot of cash in fans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmbishop Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 are you going to be using it or street or oval track applications? for oval track I buy the largest cfm with the cheapest price on eBay think they are around 2200 for 35 bucks, that way when they get smashed I don't lose allot of cash in fans. Makes sense - but don't just go by CFM, use CFM at amps. IE 2200 cfm at 30 amps is not gonna move as much air as 1800 cfm @20 amps!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC57 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 2 responses: #1) Oval track #2) How does the amount of Amps drawn influence the affects of CFM? While I can certainly understand that it may require more Amps to produce more CFM, more CFM across the radiator fins is more CFM across the radiator fins, no matter the amount of Amps drawn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abrungot Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 If this is on a truck, We had cooling issues last year on the #3. When we changed gears & were running the Electric fan, started hitting the Chip we could not keep the motor temp down. Solution was found by running the mechanical fan instead of Electric. During a race we ran in 2nd when we slowed the Engine RPM's by running in D when the temp spiked it recovered to normal temps. Electric Fan couldn't keep up with the needed Air Flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC57 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 If this is on a truck, We had cooling issues last year on the #3. When we changed gears & were running the Electric fan, started hitting the Chip we could not keep the motor temp down. Solution was found by running the mechanical fan instead of Electric. During a race we ran in 2nd when we slowed the Engine RPM's by running in D when the temp spiked it recovered to normal temps. Electric Fan couldn't keep up with the needed Air Flow. Aaron, this is on the #3 (now the #05). Do you happen to know the fan manufacturer that was (is) on the truck? And it is a triple-pass radiator, correct? And yes, usually during every caution I've been bumping her up into Drive. Does help and the temp usually comes down quickly. Last race the, temp gauge was at 250 when we were sitting under Red, but cooled back down to about 210 once we started rolling again. And I ended up pulling off when the needle pegged on the hot side. I've multiple slots cut in the nose. And have side boards built to force over 2/3 (bottom 1/3 open) of the air through the radiator, including a pan on the bottom so the air doesn't escape through the bottom. I plan to close up the remaining 1/3 that was open prior to next race. I just purchased new upper hose with internal spring, but it wasn't the hose that was molded into the hose. When I was pulling the rad Sunday, the spring was half out of the hose and in the rad. Hose collapsing perhaps? Anyway, I'm going to see if I can find a Gates hose that has the spring molded into the hose. Going to take another look at the plugs. May have to go 1 size richer on the jets. Any help appreciated y’all. Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmbishop Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 There is no standard for rating CFM. If a fan draws 20 amps and pulls 1800 cfm open air the manufacturer can up the amperage to get a 2200 rating (so you will buy theirs instead of competitors)- yet in real world (pulling thru the radiator) will only still only pull 1800 and you overheat! So to make an apples to apples compare you have to see what the cfm is at given amps. (I saw a fan that boasted 2500CFM - at 35 amps - yet in real wiring and battery situation of 20 amps would have been less than the 2100@22Amps that Spal offered) Spal has a handy chart for their fans so you can see the curve. If you wire with 12guage or better and use a 30 relay you will always be at the top of the fans ability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4cylfordz Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 I would check your radiator out both for water flow and air flow, often when a radiator is over heated frequently the water passages will swell changing their shape from flat tube to ovals and pinching off air flow. easy way to check is with a flashlight or droplight sitting on the motor. you should when standing around eight or so feet away and lookin directly at the radiator be able to see through it fairly clearly. also check your cap. coolant boiling points raise with pressure( around 1.5 degrees per pound) and 250 degrees is plently to boil the water out even wit a 27 pound cap. hince the collapsed upper hose. just some things to look at. after ya figure out what's making it overheat the rest is a snap, good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC57 Posted June 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 The radiator appears to be ok (that is no swollen passages). I pulled a plug and it almost appers to rich. Checked the carb and it was jeted at 77. I believe too rich can contribute to overheatnig too (excess fuel burning off in the exhaust ports). There's a restrictor in the thermostat housing. My plans are to: 1) Close up the remaining opening on the sides between the nose and the radiator. Force all the incoming air to pass over the raditor 2) Replace restrictor with a fail safe T-stat 3) Was also thinking of mounting the electric fan on a shroud; thereby forcing all of the air to pss through the fan 4) See if Oreilly's or NAPA has the correct hose with the spring molded into the hose 5) Install a remote oil filter. Get the filter away fom the chassis headers. Y'alls thoughts? Any suggestions on the above? Or what I may not have listed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4cylfordz Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 hmm well your on the right track there with the list though I wouldn't install a t-stat. personally I would run a clipped one just cause a thermostat can cause too much restriction at high rpm. next thought would be assuming this is a 350 in a 80-94 gm truck is to insure that it has the right water pump on it. sometimes people get mixed up when getting one for the years that came originally equipped with a serpentine belt vs v belt because the impeller is revered since the pump operates in reverse rotation. you may also want to check the impeller for extreme wear . just a thought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmbishop Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 Nothing much left to say - ya'll got er covered. The balanced stats are a good investment though, but I have had good results with no stat, stock stat notched and balanced stats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAPA Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 Another thought.....Trapped Air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmbishop Posted June 3, 2011 Report Share Posted June 3, 2011 Another thought.....Trapped Air. Good point - but typically on an sbc this only becomes a problem when the top tube of the radiator is below the thermostat (like on vettes with the laid back radiator). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC57 Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I believe I found the problem: blown fan fuse! A wire was exposed and shorted out to ground, thereby blowing the fuse. That has been resolved and shouldn’t be an issue in the future. In an attempt to find the good side in all of this, I did : go ahead and order a fan shroud which I will install in time for this weekend’s racing : determine I’m probably a bit fat on the jet So, as long as there were/are no long term damage to the engine, no harm, no foul. Thanks all for your input though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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