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Another tranny problem


keyman

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Had a "transmission mechanic" replace a seal and check out my Powerglide. Took the car to him sat morning to reinstall so I could go to I37, sounded like a good plan. 8 hours later we pushed my car back on the trailer to take home and I couldn't come up with expletives to describe my disappointment.It was working good when i took it to him. We took it out and apart and back in 3 times and it would not do anything. Not a grunt,grind or movement at all. We tried more fluid(6 Qts)I asked him several times how many clicks the torque converter makes before it is engaged and he said two, the third time we put it in it clicked three:( Maybe we screwed it up by not installing it right and running it ? The converter had some fluid but maybe not enough? Anyway does anybody know a tranny guy around Austin. Good news is I have 3 weeks before I get 1 more chance at i37, Maybe one day I'll learn if it aint broke dont fix it!!!

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Had a "transmission mechanic" replace a seal and check out my Powerglide. Took the car to him sat morning to reinstall so I could go to I37, sounded like a good plan. 8 hours later we pushed my car back on the trailer to take home and I couldn't come up with expletives to describe my disappointment.It was working good when i took it to him. We took it out and apart and back in 3 times and it would not do anything. Not a grunt,grind or movement at all. We tried more fluid(6 Qts)I asked him several times how many clicks the torque converter makes before it is engaged and he said two, the third time we put it in it clicked three:( Maybe we screwed it up by not installing it right and running it ? The converter had some fluid but maybe not enough? Anyway does anybody know a tranny guy around Austin. Good news is I have 3 weeks before I get 1 more chance at i37, Maybe one day I'll learn if it aint broke dont fix it!!!

by clicks I assume you mean spline steps when pushing the TC onto the front shafts. You have the manshaft, then jiggle and line up the intermediary shaft splines, and then jiggle and line up the front pump splines, so if you did not get it all the way onto the front pump and torqued the bell - you shoved the pump drive back - and will get no line pressure. running with no line pressure will fry the bands and clutches real fast.

 

Don't count clicks - measure from a straightedge across the bell to the bolt boss on the TC - with the TC shoved as far in as it will go. Do this coming off and make sure you are there goiung back on. TCI website has info on what it should be if you don't have the original (now with a screwed up pump drive you won't get a good base).

 

Waiting til it's broke ain't much of an option either. Preventive Maint goes along way to a succesful season. Just use a checklist for EVERY operation no matter how simple and edit it as you experience and learn. When thrashing that checklist becomes all the more important!

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Had a "transmission mechanic" replace a seal and check out my Powerglide. Took the car to him sat morning to reinstall so I could go to I37, sounded like a good plan. 8 hours later we pushed my car back on the trailer to take home and I couldn't come up with expletives to describe my disappointment.It was working good when i took it to him. We took it out and apart and back in 3 times and it would not do anything. Not a grunt,grind or movement at all. We tried more fluid(6 Qts)I asked him several times how many clicks the torque converter makes before it is engaged and he said two, the third time we put it in it clicked three:( Maybe we screwed it up by not installing it right and running it ? The converter had some fluid but maybe not enough? Anyway does anybody know a tranny guy around Austin. Good news is I have 3 weeks before I get 1 more chance at i37, Maybe one day I'll learn if it aint broke dont fix it!!!

by clicks I assume you mean spline steps when pushing the TC onto the front shafts. You have the manshaft, then jiggle and line up the intermediary shaft splines, and then jiggle and line up the front pump splines, so if you did not get it all the way onto the front pump and torqued the bell - you shoved the pump drive back - and will get no line pressure. running with no line pressure will fry the bands and clutches real fast.

 

Don't count clicks - measure from a straightedge across the bell to the bolt boss on the TC - with the TC shoved as far in as it will go. Do this coming off and make sure you are there goiung back on. TCI website has info on what it should be if you don't have the original (now with a screwed up pump drive you won't get a good base).

 

Waiting til it's broke ain't much of an option either. Preventive Maint goes along way to a succesful season. Just use a checklist for EVERY operation no matter how simple and edit it as you experience and learn. When thrashing that checklist becomes all the more important!

Thanks J W , this is in a sportmod with a midplate so once the bellhousing is torqued we have to add spacerrs to connect the flexplate to torque converter. We pulled the torque converter forward less than 1/4 inch. even if the pump was not engaged it should have made a noise or vibration or something. Now that I think about it it sounds like its not shifting because it didn't do anything but it is shifting because we can rotate tires in Neutral and it does go into park.

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Engaging the park pawl is not necessarily shifting.... you should be able to rotate the tires in any position other than Park (the renegade we ran back in the 80's would click like a ratchet when we turned the tires on jack stands - direct drive and bypassed pump).

 

I would get it to someone who knows where all the internal parts belong and can make sure something inside ain't backwards, upside down or plugged!

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