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thumper

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Has anyone had a problem with oil forced out of the breather on a 2.0 8 valve engine?I once heard using a 2.0 oil pump with 36mm gears will fill the head faster han it can drain.I have never had this problem with 30mm oil pumps.The head is not hydraulic,its an old GTI 1.8 about 1983.A million laps and now I cant keep the oil in the engine.Its not blow by eather.

 

What do you VW guys think?

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do you use an oil restricter?

i was just thinking that ..can you use one in a vw ....you can get for a 2.3 ... when steven lost 6 oo 7 motors in one season .... they all came apart for lack of oiling .i started thinking the eng builder lost his way ..which was me ....... it was later .found out the new oil pumps pulled so much more volume they emptied the pan ..could not drain back fast enough .. esslinger came out with a restristor .and never had that problem again ...

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I am not aware of any restrictors for the VW but I might have to make one.The solid head does not need as much volume as the hydraulic head.I found this problem when the bypass valve stuck shut and I blew the oil filter in half.I also spun a rod bearing,I think because of the oil loss in the pan.Now I have to replace the crank AND add 300 pounds of lead for the rules changes.I was going to put the old 1.8 back in but just like the paved track the heavy car needs more than a 1.8 can supply.I just dont want to loose another crank.

 

Thanks guys.

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I had restrictors in my neon motors. they were custom made. got them from a fellow that just did scca neons. its been awhile but I think they had to drill out the head to insert it. I'm sure you could put one in a vw motor but I'm wondering why this problem just started? OT about 10 years ago dodge built a new 4 cylinder head called the magnum I think on the srt neons. in stock form when ran at high rpm for a long time would pump all the oil out of the pan. not because of a lack of oil restriction to the head but because the oil just could not flow back down fast enough. sounds sort of strange but it happend. bad design lol

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I had restrictors in my neon motors. they were custom made. got them from a fellow that just did scca neons. its been awhile but I think they had to drill out the head to insert it. I'm sure you could put one in a vw motor but I'm wondering why this problem just started? OT about 10 years ago dodge built a new 4 cylinder head called the magnum I think on the srt neons. in stock form when ran at high rpm for a long time would pump all the oil out of the pan. not because of a lack of oil restriction to the head but because the oil just could not flow back down fast enough. sounds sort of strange but it happend. bad design lol

ford 2.3 have plenty of drain ..but wasnt enough for the pump that was being built back then ... ...that 18.dallors plus shipping is alot cheaper than blowing one up ..its a funny looking thing .just slips inside the side of the head where you screw in your gauge ... takes maybe 2 minutes to put in with a wrench ..and away you go ..

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OT about 10 years ago dodge built a new 4 cylinder head called the magnum I think on the srt neons. in stock form when ran at high rpm for a long time would pump all the oil out of the pan. not because of a lack of oil restriction to the head but because the oil just could not flow back down fast enough. sounds sort of strange but it happend. bad design lol

The magnum series of Dodge uses a very specific engineering principal. Small runner diameter with a larger valve pocket backside increases intake charge velocity, and the pressure realized from momentum when valve is on seat - thus the fuel stays better atomized at lower RPM and the total charge actually hits the intake start event with more effect on exh valve cooling and cyl "pre-fill". Looses the ability to fully charge the cyl at high RPM but drastically increases the power curve driveability at lower RPM. What does this have to do with oil return from the head? Key words lower RPMs. no NEED for the high rate of return so why place that engineering or provisioning into the design, casting and machining process? Every part of the process costs money.

 

Good design! - just not for racing. VW's are not my thing - but obviously the rules disallow modifying the head even the oil side - so cutting the supply is the logical choice. Some of the oil in the heads is there for cooling as well so keep that in mind. Cutting the oil flowing across the castings by even 10% could add a couple of degrees to your aquired temperature at the end of the main event.

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Has anyone had a problem with oil forced out of the breather on a 2.0 8 valve engine?I once heard using a 2.0 oil pump with 36mm gears will fill the head faster han it can drain.I have never had this problem with 30mm oil pumps.The head is not hydraulic,its an old GTI 1.8 about 1983.A million laps and now I cant keep the oil in the engine.Its not blow by eather.

 

What do you VW guys think?

 

 

Go to Dry Sump......... :P

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Hey Lyle,hows everything up in Dallas way?

 

I replaced the crank and rods but put the 30mm oil pump from the fast car along with the baffled pan.It seems OK but the test is on the track.

 

Anyone have ideas on where to mount 300 pounds of lead for a dry slick dirt track>On pavement its easy but I think dirt needs to be higher up.I know all the weight needs to be inside the axle line

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Hey Lyle,hows everything up in Dallas way?

 

I replaced the crank and rods but put the 30mm oil pump from the fast car along with the baffled pan.It seems OK but the test is on the track.

 

Anyone have ideas on where to mount 300 pounds of lead for a dry slick dirt track>On pavement its easy but I think dirt needs to be higher up.I know all the weight needs to be inside the axle line

 

If the track is truly dry slick with rubber being laid down, the pavement setup works. Just don't understeer (push) going in...There are a few vertical weight tricks you can use to go between tacky and dry... And you are right about the fore/aft weight being as mid-car as possible and still maintain your desired percentages.

 

Nick

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Hey Lyle,hows everything up in Dallas way?

 

Going pretty good, glad the weather seems to getting better. We are planning to start running next weekend at Cowtown, will see how things go.

 

Bummer to hear that you had already messed up your engine. Hopefully you have it figured out.

 

Lyle

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The car is fixed.The oil pump was the problem.36mm is too big.This Sat there was no trace of oil from the breather which is on the valve cover.The extra weight made the car faster although it was not yet mandated.Just like the asphalt track,the added weight helped with tire spin caused by the open diff.The car felt heavier but was not so squirley.It was almost like asphalt.except much slower.

 

Now I have to get the water to stay in the system.The top hose sprung a leak.It was the top hose from my old Passat,the raidiator also came from this car.The Passat does not have the air bleed tube on the raidiator,its blended onto the top hose.This hose costs $180.Im going to make a bleed hose and use a newRabbit hose.Engine is OK,only lose about 1/3 of capasity.

 

Its hard to write on this thing now,the advertizing blocks almost half the screen.

 

BTW,that was # 197. Only3 to go to match my favorite racer,Petty.They sure are getting harder every time.Only luck saved my this time.I fell back so far in this race trying to find some grip I got a straightaway behind second place with no chance to make it up.This track somehow makes all the cars the same speed.With 5 to go they threw the yellow because the corner workers saw liquid droppind from my car.They looked but saw nothing.This gave me a second chance,restarting back to 3rd with the gap gone.I got my head straight and stopped overdriving and barely squeekeg to the lead on the last lap.I later found the leak was a sometimes leak.Man tthats luck,period.

 

I applaude the track,water on the dirt track is no safty issue but they thought it might be fuel.Safty is a big concern,just like CC Speedway.Us drivers need looking after sometimes. :lol:

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