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LATE MODEL CLASS FOR NEXT SEASON


ebco2468

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I have an idea for you guys that want to race late models.Figgure out a way to race them with super streets.Before you start beaching,the 4 cyl cars have done this for years.What CC needs right now is better field of cars,not more splits.Put some kind of restrictions on the LM to be on the same page as the SS.Maybe tires,weight,left side %s, carbs like a 350 VS 500,even restrictor plates.It needs to be cost effective and will probably need a little tweaking after it begins.You guys that race V8s can figgure this out.The goal should be INCLUSION,not division.When theres enough cars to split the class,then go full blown LM.What I hear now is there are several types of LMs already and some consessions will be needed anyway.Unless you want to race for free,you should make this idea work.I have seen this done before.A 20 car field cearntly will be more fun than 7 cars.Be open minded about how to get equality based on car performance rather than a paticular teams.

 

I wish the Thunders would go back to the days when any brand of car had a chance and was welcome.Year after year the rules have choked the imports and favored the Fords to the point that its almost an all Ford field.The results speak for themselves.

 

I do believe getting all the V8 cars together to race together is the secret to success.And this needs to be done before the ones mathballed rust away to nothing.I have always found the best formula for a successful class is USE WHAT YOU HAVE.The more you restrict cars,the fewer you have.What do you have to loose??????For the Supers,a better car count means the next pay step.I believe the Camaros are getting fewer as time goes by.This can be a win/win deal.At least consider it.

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you have some good points thumper ..i dont agree with the rules in favor of the fords ....you did very well with your car ..neon did very well with his .stock at that .... i think it really comes down to avalibilty... fords are all over the place ..look in any yard and you may see one ..so the parts are cheaper .[ NOT MOTOR .] THAT NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED . but your car is hard to find .neons are hard to find .most are street rods .they arent cheap to find laying around ..if there were more imports laying round like the fords are and cheap like the fords are .id bet you would see alot more imports ...now seeing this is aboult late models ..i agree with you on your points to work those cars in with the supers .but i dont own one so i have no right to butt in ....now i will bail out .. late model owners good luck ..ilove watching late models..

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dont know about most lm wanting to race but to get mine close to a super street will almost be impossilbe i believe... but we will see how it pans.. out... not really worried about pay hell i would just run for trophys anyways, maybe win your pit pass back and a trophy... thats all i really need... just wanna race with as close to what i already have.... :ph34r:

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dont know about most lm wanting to race but to get mine close to a super street will almost be impossilbe i believe... but we will see how it pans.. out... not really worried about pay hell i would just run for trophys anyways, maybe win your pit pass back and a trophy... thats all i really need... just wanna race with as close to what i already have.... :ph34r:

 

 

 

Did any1 go to the late model meeting anything get decided ?

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hey sam... youve been racing all these differ classes all your life and probly know more about late models than most.. why dont you draw up a set of rules then post them... let everyone throw there opionions out and go from there.....? :ph34r:

 

 

 

Ok I'll give it a try will take awhile not much at typing fast

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GENERAL SAFETY

 

A) All Track safety rules must followed at all TIMES

B)      3” racing belts not over 5 years old. 5 point.

C)      Head restraint system recommended Neck bracket at minimal.

D)      Window net required

E)      Master battery shut off required. Within reach of driver and outside emergency personnel.

F)        Fire extinguisher required. On board system recommended

G)      Two throttle return springs required.

H)      Radiator catch can required.

I)        Roll bars must be padded to protect driver from impact.

J)        Steel plate welded to door bars on drivers side to protect driver from bumpers etc. In case of impact. Director must approve.

K)      Full fire suit, overall or pants and jacket type, racing gloves and shoes. 3 layer recommended.

L)        Helmet required. 2000 or newer

1) BODY

 

1-A)      Rear wheel drive sedan & pick-up

1-B)      Ride and body height 4” min.

1-C)      Min. Weight 2850lbs. Stock clip cars

Min Weight tubing front clip cars 3100 lbs

1-D)      57% left side max. 50% rear max.

1-E)      Fiberglass body forward of doors mandatory.

(WILL HELP TO STOP BUMPING FROM REAR)

         Aftermarket Aluminum bodies allowed (i.e.-ARP or 5-Star bodies).

1-F)      No external bumpers or nurf bars.

1-G)      Spoiler 6.0” tall and 60” wide max.

1-H)      Windshield mandatory 1/8” lexan or equivalent.

1-I)       All body parts must be ford to ford or Chevy to Chevy etc.

1-J)      . Wheel base 108 ”, max track width 65” center to center 50 lbs weight break

1-J)      . Wheel base 101 ”,to 105' max track width 65” center to center 50 lbs weight penalty

2) WHEELS & TIRES

 

2-A) 8in Goodyear track tires only

2-B) 8in rims steel any offset (must be a racing wheel )

2-C) No Air Pressure control devices of any kind

2-D)     No tire softeners allowed, and we will check.

2-D)      You must start the main on the tires that you check in at HEAT RACE staging area Will be mark with that night stamp

If for some reason unable too you must start in the rear of field

CAREFULL DON'T BUMP TO HARD TAKE CARE OF YOUR TIRES

) FRAME & SUSPENSION

 

3-A)     Any fabricated stock car frame allowed, Stock Camaro or metric

 

This clarification is to include fabricated front clips. As long as the front inner pivot points are not wider than a stock Camaro front clip and the springs are sitting in the unmodified spring pockets of the unmodified lower “A” Arm the clip is allowed. Inner pivots must be centered within 1” of Crankshaft. Crankshaft must be within 1” of track width. Height adjustment of the inner pivots is not allowed. They too must match the Camaro. Front spring angles must be vertical within reason. Director must approve. The intent of this rule is to allow replacement clips i.e. Howe, Lefthander etc. Because Camaro clips are getting harder to find.

Remember……….

(If it doesn’t say you can you can’t)

3-B)     Stock front clip may be modified for height of engine on top of cross member and in spring pocket areas. MUST use Stock Type Lower “A” Arms, After market ok Must mount in stock location..  Director must approve.

3-C)     rack and pinion 50 Lbs weight penalty

3-D)     Four, steel body adjustable shocks, max. Must require shock body disassembly to changes, No Aluminum body or remote mounted parts

3-E)     Must have steel roll cage 1 ¾” x .095 round tube, no pipe. Director must approve.

3-F)      Floater rear end mandatory. Quick change allowed

3-G)     Wide five Hubs allowed

3-H)     Steering universals must NOT be stock type or block and pin type. True universals only.

 

4) ENGINE

 

4-A)      No aluminum blocks.

4-A-1) Flat top pistons only no popups

4-B)      392 cubic inch maximum. 

4-B-1) 331 ci or less 100 LB weight break

4-C)     Stroker engines Must be declare before race 150 lb weight penalty

4-D)      No dry sump oil systems, external pumps allowed, Oil accumulator legal

4-E)      No overhead cams. Any cam drive allowed.

4-F)      OEM heads or cast Iron after market no port or polishing allow on these heads

Porting allowed on OEM heads.

4-G)       One carburetor, 500 cfm max,4412 racing carb . 1” spacer under carb allowed.

4-H)      No roller cams. Flat tappet only. (we will check)

4-I)      Engine setback 2” from the seat of front most spark plug.

4-J)        Crankshaft center height to ground 10” min.

4-K)        604 Chevrolet Crate Motor Allowed, All seals must be in place 100lb weight break

5) TRANSMISSION & CLUTCH

 

5-A)      ANY 3 speed or 4 speed transmission. Allowed (No Racing transmissions)

5-B)      Must have 2 forward gears and reverse.

5-C)     Must use approved scatter shield for clutches over 7.5" diameter.

Reverse bell housing allowed for clutches under 7.5"

5-E)      Any Clutch/Flywheel

5-F) any type of driveshaft (steel or Aluminum) Must be painted white

 

6) FUEL SYSTEM

 

6-A)      Racing fuel only, no alky fuel

6-B)      Must have fuel cell enclosed in min, 20 gauge steel box. Director must approve.

6-C)      Fuel cell ground clearance 10” min.

6-D)      Must have protector bar behind fuel cell.

6-F) Must Have stock mounted fuel pump

7) EXHAUST

 

7-A)      Any type of Headers

7-B)      Exhaust must exit outside rear of right side door side of car or turn down at rear of door

 

5} INGITION SYSTEM

 

5-A) Stock or after market DUI or Msd System 1 control box only

Must be mounted in easy to see location

 

THE HOPE OF THESE RULES ARE

 

 

1 -That the older stock clip car can run with bigger horsepower engines and a average weight equal to

the new lighter cars with coilover suspension

 

Example

Stockclip car 2850 lbs starting weight

stroker 150 lbs Older cars bigger engine less car

total 3000 Bigger engine more straightway speed

weight break improved corner speed

Don't burn your tires off !!!

 

coilover 3100 starting weight

rack/pinion steering 50

wheel base penalty 50 newer cars better handling less motor

Non stroker no penalty Tire rules comes in here newer cars

more weight hard not to burn tires off

the bigger the engine with slower the corner speed

weight penalty Don't burn your tires off

 

Total 3200

331ci weight break 100 lbs

Crate engine weight break 100lbs

 

 

These are for a starting point and surely will have to be amended

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Budget and racing don't normally jive(so I've heard) I like the desire and the hope that there are drivers that wish to wheel good looking,fast racecars! I am sure these are basic rules that are open for rebuttle. Lets here some positive input. Making a late model class may or may not be cost effective, but you have to start somewhere. NOTHING is impossible! A good race director should be the first step. Drivers with old dusty race cars are involved with the second step! Wishful thinking , I guess!

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:huh:
Why no racing transmissions???

COST ?????? FALCON ???????? COST BRINN 1900.00???

 

 

Good used Brinns/Berts can be found for < $1,000 (average around $900). Throw in another $400/$500 for a bellhousing and reverse mount starter and you're looking at $1,300 to $1,500 for everything. (or you can be frugal, shop around and pick up everything, like I did, for $1,000). If you go Falcon, you can probably knock and average of $300 off of the Brinn/Bert figures.

 

When you do the net difference between all of this and what it cost to put in a "good" raceing auto or standard, the net is not that great. And the operating cost of the "built for racing" trannies are less over time than the "modified" OEMs.

 

jmho, but seasoned with personal experience.

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if anything guys get together .come up with something close ..get the track to give yah some race nights .even if it is only twice a month .....or more ..put on what show yah can .i want to see some late models at cc again ...i think it would help in getting more fans in the stands ....... we have some great classes at cc now .why not another one ..

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Budget and racing don't normally jive(so I've heard) I like the desire and the hope that there are drivers that wish to wheel good looking,fast racecars! I am sure these are basic rules that are open for rebuttle. Lets here some positive input. Making a late model class may or may not be cost effective, but you have to start somewhere. NOTHING is impossible! A good race director should be the first step. Drivers with old dusty race cars are involved with the second step! Wishful thinking , I guess!

 

 

We need to build this class to be able to find or buy parts that are common to all the racers in the area In late model racing money always kills a 3 sp sells for around 125.00 not 1400.00 on track it will as fast the other money can be spend on other things I know from my own habits to try to buy the best part out there But them days are long gone for us local racers

The fact is any racing is expensive not many of us make money at it The fact is there is many years of super stocks late models around they don't because they don't wanyt to be beaten by money with the Internet any use part can be had for a reasonable price If we can live with fact to race a late model at 14's flat not 12's is something that we enjoy and still put on a good show for the fans And drive with the fact that if the car in front of me doesn't made a mistake then he beat me

 

The art of Driving And the abiltly to setup car a is not a thing of the past just forget sometimes

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