Jump to content

mfmotorsports

Members
  • Posts

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mfmotorsports

  1. You probably checked this already, but if it's loading up and fuel pressure leaks down after driving it you may want to make sure the regulator isn't bleeding down and flooding cylinder #8. Also, if you mean it takes a few cranks to get the fuel pressure to reach a steady 60psi or so, you may have a fuel pump bleeding down. Hope I understood you right.
  2. I was reading an archived post about internal engine cleaners. I am talking about the stuff that removes carbon from intake valves and piston tops. Being a factory GM mechanic, I have seen it all when it comes to snake oils. In the previous post, BG engine cleaner was mentioned. Although it is good stuff, one product was overlooked. It is known as GM Top engine cleaner or TEC. Diluted with gasoline, I have used it to clear up partially clogged gasoline injectors. I have also used it to clean diesel fuel injectors when diluted with diesel fuel. I have seen injector balance rates improve on a live scan tool data stream immediately after using it. In my opinion, it is the best stuff out there. The only downside is that you have to get it from your local GM dealer or parts wholesaler. For info on diesel injector cleaning, look up service bulletin #PIP4727A or doc#2373697. For info on cleaning gasoline injectors and carbon removal, there is a tool that OTC makes that pressurizes the cleaner so that you can run it through the fuel rail. You can also run it through a vacuum hose bung after the throttle body out of the container. There are plenty of online videos. Look up engine decarbon online. Being that most of us probably do a teardown in the offseason, I am assuming you are asking about your hauler. I can't stress enough about overlooking the hauler that gets us to the track. P.S. TEC may not be available in California. It is reformulated for California and known as GM upper cylinder cleaner. Works just fine. [also removes carbon from valves and pistons. It is the best stuff out there,
  3. Hello Brothers and Sisters, I have a request. My 20yr old daughter has been fighting a bacterial infection. Her name is Rosalyn and she is a cancer survivor. Through the grace of GOD she has been in remission since she was 7 years old. She has some hardware in her spine that was installed due to weakness of her bones at the time from the radiation. The doctors theorize that the hardware has been compromised and is the source of her infection. She will need surgery to remove the hardware and skin grafts as early as next week. Please pray for the surgeons and my daughter, that GOD's hand will be upon them. Thank you and GOD bless!
  4. I know I'm responding to an older post, but this is the eternal question so I will play. This is the argument like others that play out among gearheads every day. Ford vs. Chevy. Dirt vs. Asphalt, etc. A little background.....I'm a diesel mechanic by trade and despite what academia or "environmentalists" may think about that, I love what I do. At work, I work on everything from semi tractors to heavy earth moving equipment. GOD has blessed me with a lucrative means to make a living and support my family. I'm a kid that still plays with trucks, but just on a larger scale. Enough about that. The irony is the fact that BOTH of my race car haulers are gasoline powered. I use my crew cab to haul to local tracks and the motorhome for longer ventures. I'm in California, but I know most of you are from Texas. GOD willing, I would love to make it out there to race, hopefully before the end of this season. I picked up the crew cab from the truck dealer I worked at the time. It was a trade in that needed some transfer case work, so instead of doing a recon, they decided they were gonna wholesale it, so I picked it up. When I was looking for a motorhome, a diesel wasn't really an option in my price range. I picked it up used with only 18K miles. The guy I bought it from couldn't get it to pass smog, so I took it off his hands. Both of them are powered by the latest big block, the GM 8.1L. I would love to have a diesel, but both of these machines kinda came across at the right price at the right time. That being said, I have no regrets and I will tell you why, besides the fact that they are both paid for. No loan payments! I would say that if you can afford it, go ahead and spring for the diesel. If you can afford a DMAX, the 06-07 VIN D LBZ is the best pre-emission engine made. It starts @ 650ftlbs of torque, but easily responds well to minor tweaking. If a pre-2000 truck is more in your price range, spring for the 1998-2000 Classic with the 6.5 VIN F engine. The later ones have dual thermostats which takes care of some of the earlier overheating issues. ANY truck you buy whether gas or diesel should have the hoses replaced along with a new cap. Use the best parts you can get; Continental, Gates etc. Try to get their fleet grade stuff if you can. As said in an earlier post, use an injector driver relocation kit to keep it cool. Use a cetane booster/ fuel conditioner from either Stanadyne or Motorcraft to keep that injection pump alive when running ULSD. In my opinion, gas engines have come a long way. Although unheard of 20 years ago. It is not uncommon to see the LS engine go 200-300K without using a lick of oil. At the truck dealer I worked at, we had an account with Bragg Crane. They had a huge fleet of trucks using the LS engine. Many had well over 200K. These trucks were not babied by their drivers by any means. If you kept clean oil in them, they would run forever. Engine oil technology with synthetic becoming more affordable and mainstream has extended gasoline engine life significantly. I work with a fleet where many of our Ford F250s have the 6.2L engine in them; many over 200K miles, no valvetrain noise. We have a few V10s with over 300K on them. Our linemen cover from Southern California to Nevada and Utah. They would take these trucks without thinking twice. In conclusion, it is a personal and financial decision you have to make. The DMAX is little more expensive to purchase and maintain, but overall a good engine. The 6.0 is reliable but may spin hard pulling a grade. It may take some mods(intake, exhaust, camshaft, programming) to make it better. The 8.1L is good, but severely detuned from the factory. Oftentimes, just taking off the torque management makes a big difference.You can do mods (intake, exhaust, camshaft, programming) to approach diesel torque numbers but fuel mileage will still be better in those early DMAX engines. Later DMAX engines with aftertreatment (DPF & DEF) experience less MPG and less longevity.
  5. I believe it. Although it has never happened to me, I have heard of that. Those plastic covers tend to warp if removed repeatedly and overtightened. These engines are pretty old at this point so would probably advise to replace it if you have to remove it(cam or timing chain change). I have seen where the brass insert will pull out of the plastic when tightening the crank sensor retaining bolt. Finally, there is a service bulletin that addresses crank sensors contacting the reluctor wheel. The bulletin advises you to shim out the crank sensor.
  6. I went nuts with this when I first started building my car. Ebay may have a 2 barrel Holley to 4 barrel Q jet adapter from various brands. Dakota Brown showed me his set up when I first met him in Bakersfield. He is a stand up guy who had no problem helping out a newb like me. Try Wehrs Machine & Racing Products. They are available direct or on Ebay.
  7. With the key off, jumper the two top right A&B pins. After turning the key on you should get a code 12(single flash , pause, double flash) then any other codes which may be stored. If no codes, pull the schematic for the cluster and check any fuses that power the cluster. If all checks good, I would suspect a bad cluster.
  8. Even though it's an old post, I would think there are quite a few of our members driving these trucks around as tow vehicles for our race cars. I know we spend hours in the garage or shop getting our cars ready for race day, sometimes neglecting the haulers that get us there. Hope it helps.
  9. I know this is an old post, but this is a common subject. I somewhat disagree that a filter that's bypassing would increase oil consumption. When engines are first manufactured they use the thinnest oil possible to meet government CAFE fuel economy standards. While it would not hurt to continue using 5W30, depending on what region of the country you live. 5W30 will flow better at lower temperatures below 32 degrees than 10W30. That being said if possible I would switch to a 10W30 or straight 30W. Finally, if all seems good and the engine is not smoking or running rough, I would look into what may be causing oil consumption such as bad valve seals. If your truck is a 1990 GM, they are notorious for valve seals.
  10. I know this is an old post, but I thought I would add my 2 cents. This same ignition/PCM/ fuel system is found on the 4.3L W engine, 5.0L M engine, 5.7L R engine and works similar on the big block 7.4L J with the exception of different fuel injectors. The 4.3 and 5.0 are found almost exclusively in 1/2 ton trucks with a few exceptional odd special ordered combinations. The 5.7L is found in all classes up to 1 ton. The 7.4L big block only comes in the 3/4 and 1 ton. These engines were installed in trucks from 1996 to 2000 (in Classic 3/4 & 1 tons). I think the best way to tackle this would be using a scan tool; owned or rented. While cranking, look for an RPM signal. If there is a RPM reading, this most likely eliminates the crank sensor. This would leave either the ignition module or ignition coil. A bad module or connection at the module would most likely set fault codes. Seeing that there are no codes set, I would then proceed to the coil. Before condemning the coil, I would inspect the coil connector. The connector has two leads, a pink circuit which is battery voltage and a driver circuit which goes to the module. The wires are notorious for breaking inside the insulation. A tug on each circuit would break the plastic insulation revealing the open circuit. Fixed!
×
×
  • Create New...