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TALMS Rule Clarification. & Apology


TheCloser

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TALMS Rule Clarification Time

 

Original rule:

 

15. BRAKES: Must be steel OEM, operative four wheel, drum or disc. Right front brake shut-off allowed. Must maintain MINIMUM OEM dimensions for hubs/rotors and calipers, cannot be lightened.

 

Due to some confusion caused by the unclear wording of the rule and the fact that it can be interpreted both ways the TALMS Tech Director has decided that the cars with the oversized calipers will retain their finishing position.

 

I (Cody Beddoe) will take the blame for missing this grey area loophole in the rules. During the off-season the 2015 TALMS rules will be gone through with a proverbial fine toothed comb to make an attempt to find all the loopholes and grey areas and to preserve the intent of this series. And keep the series as competitive as it was at the beginning of 2014.

 

These rules were originally written for a dirt class to where all of the advantages for asphalt racing were not being considered.

 

Once again I sincerely apologize to all TALMS drivers for the confusion. We are a second year series and are still trying to work out all of the kinks. We are human and we make mistakes. All we can do is learn from our mistakes and fix them.

 

From now on the only brake calipers that will be considered TALMS Legal are Steel OEM or OEM Replacement for 78-87 GM Metric cars. Allowed caliper piston size range 2.38" (Stock OEM)-2.50"(OEM Refurbished from O'Reillys, AutoZone, etc.) All other piston sizes will be deemed illegal.

 

Please stick with TALMS. I am learning as I go.

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Cody,

Your clarification still doesn't solve the issue.

A 1978 - 1987 Impala is a metric car with a 2.5" piston, but the brake caliper and pads are much larger than the Monte Carlo type metric calipers and pads. You're going to have to state the caliper and pads must be stock OEM for a Monte Carlo type metric car.

And what about brake compounds. I'll take the larger Impala metric calipers if I can get away with it, but if I can't, I'll take a $150/set of after market pads that react the way I need them to for the track conditions.

Sorry, but don't have a nervous breakdown trying to think of all the grey areas. Do what you can and make sure the rules make it clear what you're intent is.

We used to race at a track that had a tech director that would take an offender aside, put his arm around your shoulder and, in a voice that was too low for anyone else to hear, would say "You know what the intent is, now don't show up with that again or you won't be racing that car at this track". :(

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STEERING: All components must be steel, unaltered OEM, in OEM location and match frame. No grinding, lightening or welding on any steering parts. Spindle may be reamed and bolt on spindle savers are allowed. Steel steering shafts and knuckles only. Steering quickener (optional), steering wheel and quick release (required) may be aluminum. Power steering pump and reservoir must remain one unit. Driver compartment steering may be modified, must be kept on left side. No rack and pinion.

 

IMCA Says reaming is legal.

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Alway's remember the IMCA rules being used are for dirt cars. Using them for asphalt can open up a lot of grey area due to the differences in performance, ball joints being a good example. We do run a longer LF ball joint on dirt but it's still shorter than anything being run on asphalt. To keep this class competitive and keep the dirt cars showing up is going to be tough.

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How long do you run on asphalt before you call it a asphalt car? I think Racer26 has made a excellent point. We change everything on our OEM dirt cars because we know what we want but these asphalt guys should not be able to change anything. Is it OEM balljoints on asphalt and 1/2" long on dirt and if that is the case you might look around and see you are probably getting out run by cars with longer ball joints on dirt as well.

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We would like to be able to run dirt as much as possible and asphalt with the series when we can. Change the tires, springs, shocks, bolt on the sway bar, move some lead, ride heights, scale and go racing. With the series evolving more towards purpose built asphalt cars I don't see that we could be competitive. Yes we had some lucky runs at CCS but we were still off the pace. I just don't want to see car count drop on a series that Cody has built up and doing so well. We plan to have the 12 car at Kyle if possible.

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Cody I don't think you will find anyone that agrees with you more than I do. We have seen inexpensive modifieds (TAMS) turn into $ 50,000 plus cars. But when you have dirt cars that have been changing ball joints, pick up points, and steering components yet they are complaining when it happens on asphalt I'm not sure there is a solution to the problem. Seriously how fo you reason with that kind of logic. I for one hope you figure it out because I like what you are doing for the sport.

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Sounds like a bunch of crying. You guys have good car count but choose to complain cause of a few hot drivers. If Cody is to go over the rules with a fine tooth comb then the rules will probably resemble the old THR rules for their old classes. CTS rules are only couple of pages and believe me if CTS had adapted the old THR rules I would not be running there. CODY keep the rules for your class simple, you will not be able to make everyone happy.

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Cody and Chris are doing a great job with tech and being fair...sportmods are not the most expensive class out there but they are far from cheap and I think that a lot of asphalt racers get into the class thinking they are a cheap dirt car...I know for a fact that the 29 car has less money in his car then 3/4 of the sportmods at most dirt tracks but he is fast because of driving and knowledge...the point of this post is if you think asphalt sportmods are getting out of hand then go to your local dirt track and look at the cars it will make you realize that it's not anymore out of hand then the dirt cars are.

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It would be detrimental to the class to make the Dirt cars obsolete on asphalt. That is my personal opinion. Yes, I know that will piss some chassis builders and chassis guys off but I'm more worried about saving the series and keeping it from becoming a 5 car series than anything else.

 

But what everyone has to realize is that no matter what the rules are the cream will rise to the top.

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2nd place was bought as a dirt car #29 and plans on racing at South Texas Speedway next weekend

3rd #101 raced alot of dirt with that car

4th #441 is a Western Flyer (very successful dirt chassis) bought straight from them

5th #87 Is one of the winningest dirt cars and drivers in the state

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