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sandersracing

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There seems to be a lot of hype about purple ice on the tv shows but I dont know anyone who has actually used it..... I am pretty sure most people just use water wetter... I know in a personal every day driver I used a knock off of purple ice and it performed really well in keeping the engine cooler, but I am not sure if its legal in a Race Car.. It was an o'riely off brand of purple ice and was faily inexpensive I think like 2.50 or 3 bucks for the bottle and worked damn good in my everyday car....

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We've used Purple Ice and Water Wetter. Neither seemed to perform better than the other. The best thing I've found is to use distilled water and change it every 5-10 races along with a good shaking out of the radiator to remove rubber build up.

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Ditto on the Ivory..

 

All the "purple ice", "Water wetter" and similar products do is lower the surface tension of the water. A teaspoon or so of Ivory does the same thing.. Lowering the surface tension allows the water to "wet" the metal surfaces better, in the head that means less nucleate boiling at the hot spots and overall better cooling efficiency.

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Not to undermind any of these methods or anything, but Distilled water I agree is a plus. I wouldnt recommend using any other delutines such as water wetter or like brands. Besides isnt these products illegal? Dish soap is HIGHLY DISCOURAGED b/c it leaves a film in the radiator and will in time corrode the inner workings of the radiator. jmo\\

 

SEAN

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7.) No Ethylene-Glycol or antifreeze type coolants are allowed in a race car while on the track.

 

8.) "Water Wetter™" may be added to the radiator water to improve engine cooling.

 

9.) Water may be used without additives as an engine coolant

 

 

rules from thr hs rules

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The reason for a ban on the glycol based coolants used to be environmental, but most of them are now bio-friendly. But we still don't want to use them.

Water treated with a product such as Water Wetter or Purple Ice, if spilled onto the racetrack through a blown hose or some similar act, will reduce the static friction of the tire to the track by about one-half.

But glycol based coolants reduce that same static friction by almost 2/3rds.

We all know wet tires on asphalt is a bad thing, but in this scenario, Water wetter would be less traction loss than glycol.

Ivory Soap is a good cheap subsitute, but really, and liquid soap will do the same thing. All soaps and detergents reduce surface tension of water.

 

But, like several stated, use distilled water whenever possible. Especially those of you who have Edwards Aquifer water. Think about the water spots on your faucets, then think about what all that calcium is doing do the inside of your radiator. If you have to use track water in a pinch, you will want to drain it when you get home.

Haven't done this myself, but I have heard of guys taping off the outlets of their radiators and filling them with a mixture of water and a few ounces of vinegar. Will help break some of that calcium up.

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somewhere there is a university looking for its half tilted proffessor that just up and split one day.................or better yet , an alien ship that took captive a man one dark night, implanted all the knowledge of the universe in to his brain to study the overload possibilities that may occur...........but he escaped before the study was completed. unleashing to the planet earth what could only be called TOM............HE'S IN TEXAS!

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Dish soap is HIGHLY DISCOURAGED b/c it leaves a film in the radiator and will in time corrode the inner workings of the radiator. jmo\\

 

Huhh?

 

BTW, most of the deposits found in a cooling system are calcium carbonate or aluminum oxide. Calcium, as in "hard water" is less soluble in hot water than cold. In the cooling system (and in water heaters) it comes out of solution to form those lovely white deposts we are all so familiar with. Aluminum (as in radiators, cylinder heads other components), is highly reactive and will readily bind with available oxygen to form a surface layer of aluminum oxide. Over time the moving water carries off the surface layer of Al2O3 and more continually forms to replace it. This material has the same physical appearance as calcium carbonate. Both materials will deposit in areas of low water flow. Surfactants will put much of this material into suspension in the water which could lead to an eroneous conclusion that it it the surfactant that is causing corrosion.

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use water wetter and thats it . most of all heating problems are right at the fan shroud. make sure that thing is right. the fan shround needs to fit good. either it needs to stick 1/2 inch over fan or 1/2 in front of fan for some reason this works best. good fit to the entire radiator and no cracks and holes . you will be surprised at the temp drop. also before every race pressure wash radiator. i used to have big problems with temp and after fixing the shroud and washing radiator i almost have to add tape to front to heat it up to prime running temp. hope it helps

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and dont paint your radiator .air has to cool the paint before it can the coils .be surprised at what heat paint can hold in .as much as ten degree.s or more depending on how many times you made your radiator look good .

i'm sorry but i'm from manchaca................why the hell would you paint your radiator? ............and who has done it?

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well crazy i dont know how long you have been raceing but there are alot of racers that can afford paint and do paint thier radiators .and alot that cant afford a raceing one .i have seen alot of painted and what i said is for the new drivers and some old drivers who never thought of that. and can take it in .and decide if that could be a problem for them and most radiator shops paint thier radiators . :D

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well crazy i dont know how long you have been raceing but there are alot of racers that can afford paint and do paint thier radiators .and alot that cant afford a raceing one .i have seen alot of painted and what i said is for the new drivers and some old drivers who never thought of that. and can take it in .and decide if that could be a problem for them and most radiator shops paint thier radiators . :D

if your radiator is hurt that bad that it need to be painted "to look good" even though nobody ever sees it...............well then it probably was not holding water to begin with , or was the root calse of you overheating from the start. save the cost that you spend on stupid stuff like painting the radiator to get a new one.

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Paint on a radiator is never a good thing, but if you think you need to do it, do not use the standard enamel paints that are readily available everywhere.

This also applies to anyone building or restoring a street rod or classic car.

Standard enamel paint is very thick, and it will reduce the size of the openings between the cores of the radiator, reducing air flow and heat dissipation.

 

If you know of someone who did a great job of restoring a car, and can't figure why it runs a little hot, especially while stopped, most likely they painted their radiator with Wal-mart or Krylon black.

 

If you still feel a need to paint a radiator, there are specially formulated paint options available; Eastwood sells a couple different ones. These special paints go on much thinner.

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